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Copyright
© 2002-2010 John Mayer. All rights reserved.
For reuse policy see Reuse Policy
In this
Section:
Resources:
- Maximum Signal has
cellular amps and antennas. They carry Cyfre amplifiers, which are a
high quality alternative to Wilson products, and my first choice for
amps.
-
Prime Cellular
for home and mobile cellular
antennas, amplifiers, antenna accessories and Bluetooth car kits.
-
3Gstore is the best place for
cellular air cards, cellular routers, and adaptors.
Cell Phone Providers
We
often get asked which cell phone provider to use for best coverage.
There is no definitive answer – it really depends on where you
travel and how you place your calls. We use Verizon
America’s Choice Family Plan. This
has provided us excellent coverage across the nation. Others use
AT&T and report equally good coverage. It just depends on where
you place your calls from. Fulltiming friends of ours were on our
Verizon Family Plan. They also had their own AT&T plan, which
they gave up. They have found that for their use Verizon gives them
better coverage than AT&T in the places they travelled. In my opinion, if you are a user of
Verizon or AT&T, then I would just stick with your current
provider and see how it goes. You can always switch later.
Some people use and like ATT. In places where ATT has a strong
network they may be a good choice. However, for people that travel
widely the other providers have a better network - especially when
it comes to data.
You might find the following quote of
interest:
Robert X. Cringely, InfoWorld
Notice we have not mentioned any of the “smaller” companies. They
may give really good service in a specific area – in fact better
than Verizon or AT&T – but they do not have the nationwide
coverage (in practice) that the big guys have. Personally, I would
not recommend them, but if you are already with one of them you have
nothing to loose by sticking with them and seeing what happens.
If
you are buying new phones, or are eligible for an upgrade, then make
sure you get a phone that has an external antenna connector. As a
fulltimer, or extended timer, you are sure to be in marginal service
areas. The ability to add an external antenna, and the use of an
amplifier, will enable good connections in areas where you would not
be able to hold a signal without them. But to use either the
external antenna or amp you must have a phone that has an external
antenna connector. Many phones have them well hidden under little
plugs near the antenna.
Many of the newer phones do not have
external antenna connectors. So you may be "forced" to use a phone
without one - there are inductive "patch" antennas available, as
well a cradles, that help solve this issue - these devices are
discussed in the antenna and amplifier sections below.
Cell Phone Antennas and Amplifiers
An external cellular antenna will help
with both data and voice calls if and
only if there is a signal of some sort
present. The antenna can not "magically"
produce a signal for you. But if there
is any signal available in the area you
are in, the antenna will make a "night
and day" difference in voice quality,
the ability to sustain a call with out
"drops", and the speed of a data
connection. In combination with a good
amplifier a proper antenna will take you
from no signal - and no ability to make
or receive calls - to "normal"
operation. For any constant traveler I
recommend that you get a good antenna
and amplifier from the beginning. It is
only a matter of time before you
encounter an area of marginal signal. If
you do not move around a lot, and have a
decent signal in your routine locations,
then you really would not benefit from
an antenna and/or an amplifier so it
would be best to save your money for
other "toys".
There are a number of antennas for use
with cell phones.
There is much hype associated with
antennas, and many claims for
performance not matched with real life
results. Antennas are rated in the
amount of "gain" (over using no antenna)
that they provide. This is typically
stated in dBi - as in, 6dBi of gain. You
would think this would be a scientific
measurement and an antenna with 12dBi of
gain would outperform an antenna with
6dBi of gain. But this is not always the
case, so real-world experience and
testing is important in choosing an
antenna.
Most antennas come with 12' or so of
cable. That may not be enough for where
you want to mount the antenna. But with
antennas, the length and quality of the
cable is as important as the antenna
itself. The shorter the cable run, the
better - adding extension cable to the
antenna should be avoided if possible.
If forced to extend the antenna cable,
then only high quality cable should be
used. Good cable is relatively expensive
- expect to pay for it.
Many RVers use
the Wilson Trucker Antenna. There
are actually several models of the Wilson
Trucker - and all three of the commonly
used models perform well.
One
is designed for use on RVs and has a
long threaded shaft extension designed
to go directly through the roof of the RV. It can
be cut off and mounted on a
bracket on the roof if you do not want
to penetrate your roof with it. We use
this shorter antenna permanently mounted to the side of one of
our solar panels. The advantage of using
this on the roof is that the antenna is
relatively short and will not get caught
on tree branches as easily. 
The
second model of the Wilson Trucker is designed to be mirror mounted
on a truck mirror. The disadvantage of roof mounting this is that it
sticks up pretty far and is subject to limb damage. If you choose to
use this on the roof, make sure you mount it on the far left of your
rig, and use an antenna spring to minimize damage. There is a
version of this taller antenna with an
integrated spring mount - the antennas
perform the same, they are differentiated
only by their mounting methods.
In
my opinion, the proper use of this version of the antenna is 1) on a
mirror arm, as designed, 2) a permanent mount on the side of the RV
with just the top of the antenna projecting above the roof (the
radials need to be above the roofline), 3) on a
PVC pipe or extension pole that is temporarily attached to the RV slide
or ladder with clamps
when in camp.
Both versions of the
Wilson
can be used on fiberglass RVs. They do not require a ground plane –
the radials you see near the top of the antenna perform this
function. All antennas should be mounted so
that they are not obstructed by air conditioners or other objects on
the RV roof. Clear line-of-site to the cell tower is required for
best reception.
The
Wilson
comes with 12’ of cable. You should carefully consider where you
prefer to sit when you use the phone. See if the cable can be easily
routed to that location without extending it. Extending the cable
attenuates (decreases) the cellular signal. On our
rig we dropped the cable from the short antenna down the refrigerator vent. Our amplifier is under the
refrigerator, and the 12-volt power required for the amp is tapped
off of the refrigerator power. The air card and router live under
the refrigerator too. Each installation will be different,
but you need 12-volt power for the amp, and a location that
minimizes cable run.
An excellent alternative to the Wilson antenna is the Super
Trucker Antenna, sold by Maximum Signal. This is a high gain 30" antenna enclosed in
a fiberglass radome. It comes with the mount and spring for a very reasonable
price. I own this antenna and it performs very well. As well or
better than the Wilson Trucker in
side-by-side comparisons. It would be best mounted on
the side of the RV. It does have a built in ground plane so it can
be mounted to fiberglass. MaximumSignal also sells a "regular"
Trucker antenna. It performs about like the
Wilson Trucker, but costs a little less. It
also can be mounted on fiberglass.
 If
you want an antenna on your toad (car) then I’d suggest the
magnetic mount antenna available from Maximum Signal. It is available as
part of an amplifier kit, or you can buy it individually. I also own
this antenna and it performs far better than the specifications would
indicate. In fact, under most circumstances it performs as well or
better than the Wilson Trucker I own. This antenna requires a ground
plane, so if you are mounting it on your RV make sure you mount it on at
least a 10" piece of metal (10" - square or round). A metal cookie sheet or pizza pan attached
to the RV roof with adhesive caulk provides a good enough ground plane.
Paint it with Rustoleum or some appropriate paint, if you like. If you have the
amplifier in your RV you can easily move it out to your toad if you need
really good reception when you are driving around.
Here
are my suggestions for the “typical” RV setup.
-
For permanent mounting on the roof
I would probably get the RV version of the Wilson trucker antenna
because it is shorter on the roof of the rig - otherwise it is
the same unit as the mirror mount one. You can either mount it
through your ceiling directly into your RV, or on a separate
mount on the roof and cut off the section designed to go through
your roof. Look here: Primecellular and
scroll down for SKU: 301119.
The alternative is the longer trucker,
SKU: 301101. I'd
use the longer one if I wanted to mount it on the side of the
rig, shorter one if ON the roof. Both are the same unit and
operate the same. Neither needs a ground plane - that is what
the radials on them are for. Actually, if I was mounting on the
side of the rig I'd use the Super Trucker noted above.
A car antenna should be magnetic mount, and attachable to the
amplifier. I prefer the MaximumSignal mag mount antenna - it will connect
directly to the Cyfre amplifier. It is available as part of the
Mobile Kit, which includes the amp, an antenna and all the
connectors and chargers needed. This kit is an excellent value and
works great.
The Cyfre amplifier from Maximum Signal is my first choice for an
amp (see the Amplifier section, below). The mobile kit supplies everything you need and will give
you an excellent magnetic mount antenna for use on your "toad".
If you insist on a Wilson amp, then the Wilson amplifier for Verizon and Cingular is the one on the
referenced link. SKU 811201 at
Primecellular or look at the 3GStore for equivalent.
You will need the specific adaptors that go on the end of the 6'
cable that comes with the amplifier and connects that cable to your
phone. They will tell you what you need when you call. Or you
can find them on their adaptor area of the website.
You may need
an extension for the amp or the wire from the amp to the phone. Try
to avoid this if possible, since it diminishes the signal.
Antenna Mounting Methods
 We
use the taller Wilson in conjunction with a
painters pole that extends to 14' for
temporary mounting. As you
can see from the picture, the antenna is
fastened to the top of the pole with wire
ties. The pole is clamped to the rear awning
rail and top of the ladder - this stabilizes
it in even heavy wind.
The top of the antenna is about 8' above the
rig - this provides us good reception in
most areas where the phone alone does not
work. Most of the time we do not need the
antenna and do not put up the pole, but in
fringe areas it is quick and simple to
erect. If we need even better reception we
can use the amplifier, too. We have two
amplifiers; the Wilson
amplifier is dedicated to
use with the air card, along with the
shorter Wilson antenna. The Cyfre amplifier
moves between the RV and truck/Jeep and is
used with either the magnetic mount antenna
on the Jeep, the Super Trucker antenna on
the truck, or the Wilson or magnetic mount
on the RV (yes, we have a lot of antennas). Using 2 antennas in this
fashion means we do not have to switch the
phone and the air card between the
antenna/amp. Some people
permanently mount the pole and antenna, and
just lower the top section before traveling.
If you do this, you should consider the
"travel height" of the antenna to
minimize tree strikes. The wire is run
through the window you see in the picture.
We use a 10' antenna extension cable to give
us enough length to put the phone where we
like it.
An alternative to using a pole to
temporarily mount the antenna is to
permanently mount it on the side of your
batwing TV antenna. This allows for flat
storage on the roof during travel, and for a
high elevation when the batwing is raised.
This may not meet your needs in a motorhome,
since you might want to use the antenna
while driving and it will not work well in
the horizontal position.
  
George
Miller came up with a nifty mounting method
using an exterior door handle riveted to the
mast of the batwing. Using the door handle
allows the mirror mount that comes with the
Wilson to be used, and offsets the antenna
radials from the roof to permit flush
storage. Your specific batwing may require
an adaptation of this technique - but this
will give you some ideas. Like the
pole-mount method, you can route the antenna
cable in through a window or slide for
temporary use, but a permanent routing of
the cable is probably more convenient with
the batwing mount.
  You
can also permanently mount the antenna to
your ladder on a retractable pole system
that you fabricate from schedule 40 PVC
pipe. I usually use 1 1/4" PVC pipe for the
outer "sleeve" and use 1" PVC for the inner
"pole" - they fit together with a nice
friction fit. The outer sleeve is attached
to the ladder with stainless steel hose
clamps of an appropriate size. The inner
pipe is inserted into the sleeve and pinned
in place through the outer sleeve with a
lynch pin in 2 locations - the raised
position, and the lowered travel position.
The travel position retracts the antenna
alongside the ladder, reducing the overall
height to no higher than your air
conditioner - thus avoiding most tree limbs.
The far picture
shows the antenna in it's raised position.
Depending on how long the "sleeve" is and
the location of the "pin" you can generally
get the antenna 4' above the roof and still
be able to easily position it from the
ground. The second picture shows the antenna
retracted for travel. You need to ensure
that the inner "pole" (the 1" PVC) is not so
long that it could hit in a dip while
travelling. A careful look at the picture
will show the pin hole location - place it
where it works for your combination of
sleeve length and mounting height. You can
also see the antenna wire exiting from the
bottom of the inner pole. For travel, this
is just loosely folded over and pushed up
inside the pole - friction will keep it in
place, but it is a good practice to cap the
bottom of the pole with a 1" cap (drill a
hole in it to drain water).
 The
close-up on the far left shows the antenna in the raised position,
pinned with the lynch pin. You can find these pins in any hardware -
usually in the specialty hardware drawers. Note that the pin is
located such that there is room to grab the inner pole that the
antenna mounts to. This allows you to twist it into position and
locate the brackets on the end of the pole to clear the ladder
easily. If you cut the inner pole flush you will not be able to
easily retract the antenna. For travel, there is another hole
drilled through the inner pole higher up. The pin is pulled, the
pole lowered, and re-pinned in the travel position.
When attaching the outer sleeve to the ladder, make sure you snug up
the pipe clamps fairly firmly. Once you put some miles on the rig
check them for tightness, or you may find yourself dragging the pole
down the road. Generally, this is not a problem. I use clear plastic
tubing cut in 1" pieces and "sliced" to wrap the ladder under the
clamp. That prevents any damage to the ladder from the clamp. If you
look closely you will see the plastic tubing under the clamp in the
picture on the left.
The antenna is attached to the top of the pole with a simple bracket
fabricated from 1/8"x2" flat aluminum stock. Simply bend it in a "L"
shape and drill a 3/8" hole in the top L to bolt the antenna
through. Use a stainless nut with lock washer, and coat the treads
with red thread lock before tightening. Attach the long part of the
"L" to the 1" pole with two 1 3/4" stainless bolts with nylo-lock
nuts. The nuts and bolts keep the inner pole from dropping through
the sleeve when retracted.
Your 15' extension line from inside attaches to the 12' antenna line
when the external antenna is required. Routing locations for the 15'
extension are installation dependent, but many people just pop it
through the slide seal, or in through a window.
Parts list:
-
1- 10' 1" PVC
-
1 - 10' 1 1/4"
PVC
-
Aluminum stock
to make "L" bracket
-
2 - stainless
3/8 washers, one 3/8 lock washer, one 3/8x24 nut to attach
antenna to "L" bracket
-
2 - 1
3/4" stainless bolts with nylo-lock nuts
-
1 - 1/4"x2"
lynch pin with rounded back retainer
-
3 - stainless
hose clamps (large enough to attach to ladder). You can use
more, but you need at least 3.
-
1' - clear
plastic tubing (used to cushion clamp and prevent damage from
ladder - cut a section out of the tubing).
-
1 - cell phone
antenna (the Super Trucker from MaximumSIgnal or the taller Wilson trucker work well, but any taller
antenna will work).
 The
picture to the left shows two antennas mounted to the side of a 5th
wheel. The far one is a wifi antenna - in this case an 8dbi omni
antenna mounted on a 1" PVC pole inserted into a 1 1/4" piece of
PVC. For travel, the wifi antenna is removed from the outer sleeve
and snapped into PVC clamps that you can see just above the window
awning.
The right antenna is a mirror mount Wilson Trucker, permanently
mounted to the left side of the RV. This keeps it relatively safe
from tree limbs. There is also a spring on this Wilson (we added it)
to offer further impact protection.
Both of these antenna leads enter the RV directly through the wall
into a cabinet. The disadvantage of this mounting method is the
permanent holes in the side of the rig. But in many cases this is
the most logical way to get the leads inside. Particularly in the
case of a slide out where the entertainment center and desk is
located, this may be the only viable option.
    These
pictures show a WISP radio (Wireless Internet Service Provider)
being used to acquire RV park wifi. The antenna mast is similar in
concept to the Wilson Trucker antenna mast. The major difference is
that the WISP radio shown is directional, so it has to be pointed
toward the wifi signal. This means that the mast must be able to be
rotated and locked into place with the pin. This is accomplished
with 8 holes in the outer sleeve - you can see these in the second
picture. The radio is rotated to the proper location and the pin is
used to lock it in place. The Ethernet cable is plugged into an
outside RJ45 jack when the radio is deployed. Inside, this is
connected to a wireless router that repeats the RV park wifi signal.
The WISP radio is a powerful device, and can transmit signal to
another WISP radio up to six miles or more. In use as shown
capturing RV park wifi it is easily effective at 2 miles if you have
clear line-of-sight to the wifi signal.
Wired
Amplifiers
 Probably
the best know cellular amplifier on the market today is made by
Wilson. The Wilson direct
connect dual band (800 MHz and 1900MHz) cellular amplifier will
boost an existing cellular signal quite a bit. Of course, you have
to have a signal to start with. We have found that our wired Wilson
amp will take a signal that does not even show on our phone, and
increase it to 3 bars. This takes us from no service to very good
service.
The type of amp you need depends on your phone provider and what
technology they use. We use Verizon so we use the dual band CDMA
amplifier. The Wilson amps come with a 12-volt car adaptor - if you
want a 120-volt adaptor it is extra. They also come with a 6'
extension cord that you use between your phone and the amplifier. If
you want to be farther from the amp than 6' you need to purchase an
extension cable with the appropriate connectors on it. You also need
the appropriate adaptor for your phone, so make sure you order that
with the amp. If you already use an external antenna, then that
adaptor can be used - you only need one.
The connections go like this: from the phone an adaptor specific to
your phone model connects to
the 6' extension cable. The extension cable plugs into the phone
side of the amp. On the antenna side of the amp you plug in your
external antenna.
The Wilson amps put out 3 watts on the 800 MHz band, and 2 watts at
the 1900 MHz band.
 It is best if you use an antenna and amplifier that plug directly
into your phones antenna port. If you are unfortunate enough to have a phone
- like a Blackberry, for example - that
does not have an external antenna port there are options. The Wilson
811210 dual band amplifier uses a little Velcro connector that you
Velcro to your phone near the antenna when using the amp. Or, you
can buy an add-on cable with the patch if you already have an amp -
the model 301140 is shown at the left. They do
work pretty well, but obviously not as well as the dedicated antenna
port. The amplifier is a little cheaper, though.
Maximum Signal also sells these inductive antenna pickups for their
Cyfre amplifiers. All inductive pickups need to be secured right
over the internal antenna in order to be effective, so you may have
to experiment based on the location of your phones antenna.
Wilson is not the only maker of cellular amplifiers.
Maximum Signal sells the
high-quality Cyfre amps for a very reasonable price. They are one of the few
(or only) amplifiers approved for use by the cellular carriers. They are cheaper than the
Wilson, as well. We use one of these amplifiers for our cell phone,
and our older Wilson amplifier for the aircard. This is an excellent
amp, runs completely cool, is cheaper than a Wilson, and is approved
by the cellular providers. In combination with the Maximum Signal Trucker antenna
(different than the Wilson Trucker) it makes a very good
combination for pulling in maximum signal. This amplifier
outperformed the Wilson slightly in my personal testing, and is the
one I would choose first. It does use different connectors than the
Wilson antennas, so if you want to combine it with an existing
Wilson you have to get the appropriate adaptor - which is only a few
dollars. The best thing to do if starting from scratch is to combine
it with a Maximum Signal trucker, if side mounting. If roof mounting
I'd recommend either the short Wilson RV antenna, or the magnetic
mount from Maximum Signal.
Let me be real clear about the amplifiers. We have both a Wilson and
a Cyfre, and I have tested both of them with various combinations of
antennas (5 different antennas). While we have had the Wilson for
many years and gotten good use from it (and still do) the Cyfre is a
superior amplifier in my experience. We would buy another Cyfre if
purchasing a replacement for one of our current amplifiers.
Wireless Amplifiers
Wireless amplifiers allow multiple devices (phones and aircards) to
use the same amplifier without a physical connection to the amp.
They all use two antennas. The "phone" antenna is inside the RV and
is used to communicate with the phone(s) or aircard. The "tower"
antenna is external to the RV and communicates to the cellular
tower. The "phone" antenna has to be some distance away from the
external "tower" antenna. That distance varies depending on the
hardware and software used in the amp - it may be as far as 45' of
separation, or as little as 12'. That may be hard to do in an RV and
still be able to conveniently use your cellular devices.
It is tempting to use a wireless amp and eliminate the requirement
for a phone antenna adaptor, and to enable use of multiple devices
at the same time (2 phones, a phone and aircard, etc). My
problem with this is that I have not found a wireless amp
configuration that works well in an RV environment. . The other issue is
that the "phone" antenna typically has to be pretty close to the
phone or aircard. In many instances I have tested there is no signal
boost on the phone unless the phone is within 2-3' of the "phone"
antenna.
Wilson has a wireless vehicle amp available. I have tested it, and
with the supplied "phone" antenna you must be within a couple of
feet of the antenna to get any boost. Improving the antenna will
improve the coverage area out to about 6-8'. If this is acceptable
to you, then you might try it out .
Wilson has a SOHO wireless kit available as well. I have not tested
this kit, but I am told it can work in an RV, with about 4-6' of
distance from the "phone" antenna being the typical available range.
The Cyfre wireless amplifiers that MaximumSignal
sells are NOT RECOMMENDED for use with cellular data - they are
intended for voice only.
For me, the bottom line on the wireless
systems is that I have not found one yet that I'm willing to risk
$500+ on experimenting with. I already own two wired
amplifiers. From my perspective it would be
cheaper to buy a second wired amp/antenna than to experiment with a
wireless system. And bear in mind that you ALWAYS get far better
performance with a wired system. If I was just starting out I would consider the
Maximum Signal wireless setup for voice, as long as I could return it if it
did not perform to my expectations.
Splitter/Combiner
If you have two phones, or a data card and phone, and want to share
a single amplifier then you previously only had two choices; either
get another amp and antenna, or use a wireless amp that supports
multiple connections. Now you can also buy a splitter to allow two
devices to physically connect to a single amplifier/antenna. Take a
look at the Maximum Signal website
here for additional information on a signal splitter under $100.
The 3GStore also sells these splitters.
The disadvantage of using a signal splitter is that it diminishes
(attenuates) the signal. But if you place it before the amp then the
amplifier should overcome most/all of this. The splitter shown
attenuates the signal 3 db. This is an acceptable tradeoff for the
function provided but only if you use it with an amplifier. Do not
use a splitter without an amplifier - it attenuates the signal too
much.
Internet on the Road
Cellular Data
Modems
Prior to 2007
Verizon permitted use of a handset and their Mobile Office kit to
connect to the Internet. If your account was enabled for National Access
then you could do this free of charge (it used minutes off your plan).
Since 2007 Verizon has been eliminating this undocumented feature. Now,
for most people,
the only alternative is to purchase some sort of data plan for use with
certain tethered handsets or to purchase an aircard that acts as a
dedicated cellular modem. For most fulltime RV users, the air card
is the preferred option since it is more flexible than a tethered
handset. Unlike the use of the Mobile Office Kit that just used
your voice plan minutes to send data for "free", an aircard requires
a separate data plan.
So what exactly IS an aircard? In simple
terms, the aircard is a dedicated device (actually a modem) that allows you to send data
over the cellular network instead of voice (as with a cell phone). The
cellular provider then takes this data from the cell tower and connects
it to the internet, just like a home-based ISP does. At home, many
people use DSL provided by their local phone companies. There is a
device that the computer plugs into called a DSL modem (often combined
with a wireless router). The aircard takes the place of this DSL modem.
In some regards, the aircard seems very much like a wifi adaptor - it is
a wireless device that allows connection to the internet. But the
technology used is totally different, although the result is the same.
The aircard is inserted into a PC or a
"cellular router" and translates the data into the form that the
cell system that you are subscribed to can understand. All of this
occurs on the same cell towers that voice calls go through, although it
is handled separately. Your air card has it's own "number" to identify
it - although normally you do not have to know anything about this
(except for on your bill).
There are currently only two form factors
(physical configurations) of aircards used. One is a USB connection, and
the other uses the Express Card format to plug into the computer or
cellular router. The older PC Card format is no longer widely used,
since all new computers only have USB and Express card slots in them.
As a "companion" to the aircard you can purchase a cellular
router from a third-party supplier to use with your aircard - Verizon and
Sprint do not sell or support the routers. The router performs the same
function as a "normal" home router does, but it is a special device that
"knows about" cellular modems, instead of DSL modems or cable modems.
So you can not use your current house router with an aircard - it would
not know how to "talk" to it, any more than a DSL router would know how
to talk to a cable TV network. Using a cellular router allows you to set up a wireless
network just like with a "normal" wireless router. Instead of using DSL
or a cable provider for the backhaul (the attachment to the Internet),
these special cellular routers allow you to plug your aircard into them for the
backhaul. To talk to your computer, the router uses a wifi
connection. You then use your computers wifi connection to access the
Internet, just like with a conventional wifi network. (So, from your
computer to the cellular router you use wifi, from the cellular router
to the internet you use the cellular data system via the aircard.)
The advantage of
using the router is multifold:
-
Multiple computers can share your aircard connection.
-
Your aircard is protected from damage,
since it is not being moved around a lot.
-
It is more convenient to connect the aircard to an external antenna and/or amplifier.
-
You can hardwire a desktop into the LAN
port on the router via Ethernet, if required. Or hardwire other
devices like a printer or NAS (Network Attached Storage).
-
Your laptop battery will last longer
than having the aircard directly connected.
-
If you have a trailer, the internet
connection can be used while driving without moving the aircard to
the truck. Everything stays in its place, only your computer is
moved to the truck.
-
You do NOT have to load Verizon
software (VZ Access Manager) on your computer. Many people
(including me) have had a lot of problems with this software.
If you are thinking of an aircard instead
of a satellite system, or as an alternative to just using WiFi, there are a number of things
to consider:
-
Most important is the supplier. The
cellular companies do not support use of cellular routers. It is
best to use a third party supplier that can provide proper technical
support. Personally, I like the
3GStore. They have proven over the years to give superb customer
service/support, and their prices are VERY good.
-
Which provider: Sprint and
Verizon have the fastest networks and the most towers. Verizon may
arguably have the better system, since they are rolling out the
broadband faster than Sprint, but both are good. ATT does have a data
system, but it is slow compared to either Sprint or Verizon, and it
does not have as much nationwide coverage.
-
Does the aircard support Rev. A
networks? Do not buy a card that does not. Rev A networks provide
faster upload speeds. All new cards these days should support Rev A, but
some older cards (or used cards) may not.
-
Which type of aircard: USB or Expresscard? Both work equally well. New laptops only have Express
slots in them, so the older PC Card format devices will not work.
USB will work on desktops as well, but are more prone to connector damage. If
you are not using a router then damage to the aircard is a serious
consideration with USB. If you are intending to use a router, then
make sure it will support Expresscard if that is the type of aircard
you want. Not all routers do.
-
External antenna: the chosen air card
should have an external antenna port. You WILL need the external
antenna in many areas. Make sure that the adaptor cable you need to
connect to the antenna cable from the aircard is
available.
-
With USB modems size of the device varies.
Smaller is better, especially if you use it directly in the laptop.
Some USB aircards have microSD card slots in them which allow you to
store data on them as well.
-
Does the card have an inbuilt antenna
that can be moved around (and raised) for better reception. This can
be critical for best speed but is not as important if always
connected to a router and external antenna.
-
Does the card work with the router you
want. Even if you don't feel you need a router right now, you ought
to at least tentatively pick one out and factor that into your
decision process. Not all aircards will work with all routers.
-
Cost is always an issue. Don't
pay for features you do not need.
Important: This is my opinion only, take it for what it is worth. Do not
shop price on a router and aircard. Shop service. Especially if you are
not a networking expert. If and when something goes wrong you need
someone to call. 3GStore has an excellent track record of providing
outstanding service. Take my advice and buy your aircard and router from
them. You are far more likely to get issues resolved with their
technical support than any other way I know of.
Because we fulltime in our RV, and space is
at a premium - plus I only need the wireless connectivity provided by
the wifi portion of the cellular router - I initially chose a very compact router.
I bought the CradlePoint CRT350 and a USB aircard to go with it.
For the aircard I chose the Verizon USB727 (made by Novatel) because of
the compact form factor, the ability to use a microSD card with it, and
the fact that it has a very good loop antenna should I choose to use it
without the external antenna.
 The
CRT350 is very small, as you can see from the pictures (click to enlarge). Some
of the cons of this router are: no external wifi antenna so you can not improve
the wifi coverage area with an antenna, it requires a USB aircard (no
Expresscard support) and it only supports one LAN connection (for connecting via
Ethernet to a desktop, for example). These were not issues for my use, but
they might be for your particular situation. Note that when connected to the router the aircard
sticks out quite a bit. It is definitely subject to damage to the USB connector
if knocked about. The newer alternative to this router is the CRT500. The biggest
difference between them is that the 500 has an external wifi antenna for better
range and supports Expresscards. Other than that they have about the same functions and form factor. The
CRT500 costs a bit more, but is worth the price difference. I would choose it
over the CRT350.
If I wanted more connectivity options (LAN and WAN)
and the flexibility of an "N" wifi network plus external antennas then I would
look carefully at the Cradlepoint MBR1000 router (look
here for a review
and specs). The disadvantage of this
router (in my view) is that it is much larger, and costs considerably more.
It does have external antennas to increase its range - but they are not
removable. However, it has some great features if you need them. At the time I bought my
router the MBR1000 was not available. If I was buying today, that would be the
router I would personally buy.
 Along with the proper adaptor cable to hook the
external antenna connector on the USB727 to my amplifier, I also purchased the
optional car adaptor for the router. This allows me to hook the router to a
12-volt power source and permanently install it in my RV. In my case, it is
located under the refrigerator where my cellular amplifier lives. The advantage
of this is that I always have an internet connection available - even if
boondocking or driving down the road. The signal from the internal wifi antenna
on the CRT350 is good enough to get through the solid metal cab of my truck
without a problem. The picture to the left (from the 3GStore) shows how the four
pieces combine to make a complete system. Those are not the exact components I
used - but you get the idea. The router hooked to the amp and external antenna maximizes
my cellular data signal and allows me to keep connected longer and with faster
speeds than just the internal air card antenna. This allows Danielle to use the
laptop to check fuel prices, campgrounds, etc. while we are driving. Plus, it is
kinda neat to see an email pop up while driving down the road ....
I chose the Cradlepoint router because it has the
reputation for holding a stable connection and has good manufacturer support for
firmware updates. Unlike the older KR1/DLink it has never
reset the connection. I was concerned with the lack of an external WiFi antenna,
since I wanted to be able to use my computer outside and in the truck. But the
range of the Cradlepoint WiFi is more than enough for that - I'm getting at
least 50-75' of very usable connection distance. After two years of use I am
still totally
satisfied with this configuration of equipment. Of course, in the future there
will be something "better" I will wish I had. The combination of equipment I
chose may not meet your needs, so you need to consider the factors above when
planning your purchase. Plus, like everything else electronic, there are
constantly new products available. Usually better and cheaper than the old ones.
So make sure you investigate the latest equipment.
 The
3GStore is a great resource for technical info, and they can
help you with your decisions. They are also cheaper than Verizon, and most
importantly will provide you excellent technical support after the sale. Verizon
will not provide adequate technical support for an air card or router.
If you use Verizon you will often hear about the
Verizon policy that can result in termination of services if you exceed 5 GB of
data a month. This policy has changed from a "termination" of services to
a "reserve the right" to terminate services, so they have loosened it up some.
But what does 5GB mean to the "normal" user? Five gigabytes a month is 166 MB a
day - every day. You would be unlikely to exceed this limit unless you were
downloading/uploading very large files routinely, downloading movies, or
streaming a lot of video or audio. Software updates can be large so you might
consider turning off the automatic download feature and manage software
downloads when you are on a wifi system, or when you know the size. The
EVDOInfo website
(part of the 3GStore) has
a good table of what different types of online activity cost in data sizes. It
should give you a good feeling about the 5 GB limit. If you are just surfing the
web, doing email, updating websites and blogs, and occasionally viewing YouTube
videos, then you should never exceed the 5 GB limit. If, however, you run a
business online that requires large file uploads, lots of photos, or constant
video streaming, then you need to investigate a little closer.
MiFi Wireless Router/Modem
 Verizon,
Sprint and AT&T all offer the MiFi for Internet access. The MiFi is a small,
credit card-sized device that combines a wireless router and cellular modem
(aircard) into one device. It is battery-driven, or can be plugged into AC or DC
for static location use. The battery lasts about 3-4 hours, or more, depending
on use. The device is small enough to slip into a shirt pocket for “walk-around”
hotspot capability – or just throw it on the dash of your car. It allows any
WiFi-capable device (like an iPod Touch, for example) to connect to the Internet
without any cables or other modifications. In that sense it takes the place of
the popular Cradlepoint cellular routers combined with an aircard. All in your
pocket. The data plan pricing is the same as an aircard. However, the equipment
cost is less than an aircard and router.
For the travelling RVer this device at first blush seems
like a great alternative to the Cradlepoint router/aircard combination. But for
most RVers I do not think it is the right choice.
Here’s why:
- There is no antenna port on the MiFi. So a wired
antenna/amplifier is not able to be used. If you currently have an antenna
and amp, it is useless. Alternative: you can get an amplifier with an
inductance patch antenna - these use a small patch that attaches onto the
MiFi with Velcro to pick up the signal. You attach it over the antenna
location on the MiFi. Look at the Wilson SignalBoost Model 811211 for an
example of these.
- The MiFi does not allow a physical Ethernet connection
– there are no Ethernet ports on it. Only wireless connections are
supported. This is not an issue unless you have wired devices you would like
to attach, or unless you would like to tether it via Ethernet. It will only
tether via USB. And when tethered it only supports that one computer – WiFi
is not enabled when tethered.
- WiFi range is very limited. About 30’ at best. If this
is enough then fine, however, the Cradlepoint routers have enough range for
you to use them while driving down the road in your RV, or outside around
your site. While the MiFi can be moved around to accommodate those needs, it
is easier to set something up and leave it in place.
- Only five simultaneous connections are available. That
may be an issue for some people, what with iPod Touches, iPhones, iPads,
wireless printers, wifi enabled cameras, storage (NAS backup), and other
devices wanting to share the local network.
- The MiFi does not support 4G networks, which may be an
issue as we move forward. On the other hand, it is cheap and can be replaced
with a newer version…I’m pretty sure they will have one – but the question
is when.
- You are locked into one piece of hardware that
performs two primary functions. There is no way to upgrade just the router
or just the modem. As more advanced functions are available in either area,
you will not be able to selectively upgrade. For some, that is not a
consideration, but you should be aware of it.
If you have a MiFi and find that you need to boost the signal there are
several options. First, you can add an external antenna and connect it to the
MiFi with an inductive antenna adaptor (shown above). This works acceptably and
may boost the signal enough. If you need more boost, you can combine this with
an amplifier of your choice and still use the inductive connection from the amp
to the MiFi. But Wilson makes an interesting alternative if it meets your needs.
It is a combination cradle/amplifier that holds the Mifi (or a phone, like a
Droid X), provides an RF port for a physical antenna connection, and amplifies
the signal. The MiFi or phone MUST be in the cradle for it to work. Take a look
at it on the 3GStore website:
Wilson Sleek Cell Phone Booster. If you use the Sleek with a phone you
either have to use the speakerphone or a headset/bluetooth adaptor for the car
radio.
Dream Cellular
Internet System
If I could start over again and money was no object
then this is what I would buy. Make sure you check these items out for yourself
- things change rapidly in electronics and this may not be current info, or it
may not be applicable to your needs. Be especially careful to understand
the router and its features/limitations as they apply to you.
-
Provider: Verizon
-
Aircard: USB 760 from Verizon
-
Cellular Router: Cradlepoint MBR1000 from
3GStore (note, this used to be the MBR900, but there have been a high number
of failures of the 900 recently)
-
Amplifiers: two Cyfre amplifiers - one
dedicated to voice, one to data.
-
Antennas: It depends on the mounting location,
see discussion above. For permanent mount on RV roof, the Wilson RV (with
adaptor to mate to Cyfre amp). For side mount or temporary mount, the
Maximum Signal Super Trucker. For use on a car the Maximum Signal magnetic
mount.
Powering
Your Devices
Amplifiers and routers require an outside power source. Both can run on either
12-volt or 120-volt. When installing your system you really should set it up for
12-volt use. This will allow you to use everything when boondocking or when
driving down the road. In particular, the router needs to be on when driving if
you want Internet access. It is useful to get emails, and to search for points
of interest or look at live weather radar while travelling. You will have the
technology - why not use it. If you set up everything for 12 volts then there
will be no shuffling of cables on travel day, or when boondocking.
You may have to order a 12-volt adaptor for the router. Most of the amplifiers
come with the 12-volt hookup. You may also have to locate the devices near an
existing 12-volt plug, or wire in a new 12-volt service to supply them in your
chosen location. This is generally possible to do without too much trouble. Just
make sure you use heavy enough wire if you have to add a new 12-volt outlet.
There are voltage drop tables in the Solar sections of this website.
You don't have to worry about the antenna - they are passive devices. They need
no power.
WiFi
Under Construction
Satellite
Systems
Under Construction
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