Communications on the Road

 

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Internet on the Road

• Millenicom
• 4G Technology
• Cellular Data Modems and Routers
• MiFi Router
• WiFiRanger Intelligent Router
• WFRBoost
• "Dream" Cellular Internet System
• WiFi
• Powering Your Devices
• My Setup

 

Introduction

 

Millenicom

Millenicom (www.millenicom.com) is a reseller of mobile (cellular) broadband. They sell plans on the Sprint and Verizon 3G and 4G network.  The Advanced Plan is Verizon. This gives you 20 gigabytes a month with no contract. You have to buy their aircard - you can not use your card, if you have one. The Unlimited Plan and the BYOD Plan are both Sprint, and have an effective limit of 50 gigabytes a month. On all the plans you can keep the aircard they supply when you terminate service. There are setup charges, but no termination charges.

The current plan is offering a 3G/4G Verizon hotspot capability with a "mifi"-like device that is a combination wireless router/aircard. You get 10 gigabytes of 4G data and an additional 10 gigabytes of 3G data for  $70/month, with no contracts. The current device is  the Verizon 4G Jetpack 4620L (Novatel), but this can vary over time. And, best of all, currently you can use all 20 gigabytes of data on the 4G network without penalty. That too, may change over time.

Millenicom can not tell you who provides the network for the various plans - it is part of their resellers agreement. But the information above is accurate. On both the Verizon and Sprint service you get full access to the network, just like a "native" customer. There are no restrictions or throttling of data.

4G Technology

4G is the term coined by the cellular carriers to refer to the new/next generation of transmission standards for cellular voice and data. While what is currently available is not truly 4G by definition of the standards bodies, it is still marketed as 4G to represent the fact that it requires new equipment, and is significantly faster than the current 3G technology. Effective actual speeds of Verizon LTE have been seen in use up to 42 mbps. This is actual use - not theoretical. As the systems become loaded Verizon says the expected speeds will be in the 5-12 mbps area (downloads), or perhaps a little faster. Still quite fast compared to today's 3G speeds, which average in use up to 1.2 mbps or so. I have personally seen Verizon 4G running at 32 mbps, and commonly see 12 - 15 mbps.

Verizon and Sprint (along with its partner Clearwire) have the largest 4G networks at the moment. Verizon's service is called LTE and they started the rollout in December, 2010. It operates initially on the new 700 MHz bandwidth in many locations - but it can be on any of the Verizon bands (700, 800 and 1900 mhz). Because it may operate on a different frequency than the existing network it requires new modems (aircards), perhaps new external antennas, and new amplifiers. Sprint's service is called Mobile WiMAX and operates on the 2.5 GHz band. It also requires new equipment. While the newer services do require equipment upgrades, it is worth the trouble and expense for the greater speed and better integration of voice and data on a pure IP network. From an end-user perspective through 2012 the issue is the degree of availability of the networks. Neither network is widespread enough that most RVers will be able to take advantage of it - yet. By late 2012 this should change. But if you do frequent areas where 4G is available you will want to take advantage of the speed. AT&T has an HSPA+ network that has higher speeds than their previous networks. They are moving to LTE starting in mid 2011, but this will take some time. While the HSPA+ network is not bad, it is not as widely deployed as the Verizon network. If you are choosing only one provider for data, my advice is to choose Verizon. If you can afford multiple plans, then my advice is to get a 4G aircard on Verizon, and a shared data plan with smartphone on ATT. This will permit you to use the smartphone with a free hotspot - giving you the best selection of data networks no matter where you are.

All of the vendors currently provide aircards that can handle 3G and 4G. The older 3G aircards are no longer sold by the network providers, but they still work on the networks - you can buy them on Ebay and from private parties. The issue with the current crop of 3G/4G cards is that they are new technology, and like anything new there are some issues with them switching between 3G and 4G. These issues will be worked out as the new networks are deployed, and I don't expect this will be an issue long.

So what do you do?

If you are a current Verizon user of the 3G system Verizon has made moving to 4G attractive by pricing a 5GB/month 4G data service at $50 ($10 cheaper than your current 3G service). This can save you money if you are on a 5GB contract and not grandfathered into the unlimited plan. If you move to the 4G plan, even with an overage of 1GB for a month (total use 6GB) you would only pay your regular $60, since data overages on the 4G plan are $10/1 GB. Not a bad deal. And you can get 10 GB for $80. The 4G aircards work on the 3G system with your current antennas and amps, but if you want those same capabilities on the 4G system you need additional equipment - which is not yet available, but should be by December 2012. Keep that in mind.

Sprint users can get unlimited 4G for $60 a month and fall back to 5GB of 3G on that plan. So if you frequent a 4G Sprint area that is a great bargain. Most people will consume more data on 4G because of the available speeds. But if you are most often in a 3G Sprint area you get no real benefit from the 4G pricing plan, and Verizon would be a better deal. And history has shown that Verizon will roll out the network faster and more broadly than Sprint - another factor to keep in mind.

If you are new Verizon aircard user, you have no choice but to go to the 4G plan, since they no longer market the 3G data plan for aircards. However, new users who want 3G should buy the Millenicom Advanced Plan, which will give you 20 GB a month on the Verizon network with no contract. Check them out at Millenicom.com. Once the 4G networks are more prevalent you can switch over to 4G, since you are not under contract. If you live or work in a 4G area then you will probably want to go right to 4G.

The cellular companies constantly change pricing plans. Verizon's "tiered"-structure data plan is shown below. 3G modems are not shown in the chart, but are still priced at $50/5GB for current users. New users have to go to 4G and the shared data plan. I included this only to give you an idea of the data plan structure - you need to go look at the Verizon plans directly on their site when researching your best option. If you are on this plan you can remain on it. But new customers must go to the newer "Shared Data" plan, described below.

 

Shared Data Plans

Adding confusion to the issue are the "shared" data plans by Verizon and AT&T (Verizon plan shown on the left). These allow you to buy a "pool" of data  and share it among 10 "devices" - so your aircard no longer comes with 5GB of data a month. Instead, you are charged a basic monthly fee for the aircard (in the case of Verizon, $20/month). The data that the aircard uses comes from the "pool" of data that you purchase separately. In the chart to the left, 6 GB of data cost you $80/month. Your smartphone also has a monthly device charge - $40/month on Verizon, and can also share from the same data pool. You can do this with a tablet also (assuming it is a cellular-enabled tablet) - it has a device charge of $10/month. If you have a lot of devices that want to use cellular data the shared data plans can actually be cheaper. It also allows you to add smartphones that may not be using that much data for a cheaper monthly cost. How is that, since it is $40/month? Well all minutes and all texting is now "free" on the shared data plan. So although that second phone is costing you more per month ($40 vs $30 on the old plan) there is no additional charge for minutes or texting. It may end up cheaper when you look at the total package cost. You have to figure it based on your usage.

Moving to the shared data plan is currently optional for existing customers. You can stay with the tiered "device/data" plan, where you pay for the device and it includes a certain amount of data, or you can move to the shared data plan, where the device charge is cheaper, and you buy a pool of data that all share. New customers MUST go on the shared data plan. If you are an existing customer and choose to move to the shared data plan, your USB aircard charge will drop to $20/month. So if you are entitled to a free upgrade get the 4G aircard (or a Jetpack). You have nothing to lose and you will have 4G speeds where available.

Also, don't forget that you still have to fulfill your contract terms. For example, if you purchase a tablet with cellular capability from Verizon, you are on a two year contract for $10/month. That is $240 added to the price of the tablet. That may work well for some, depending on how you use the tablet. For others, purchasing a WiFi-only tablet on the open market, and turning on the hotspot on your phone is likely a better deal. Phone hotspots, minutes and texting are all FREE on the shared data plan.

Cellular Data Modems and Routers

Prior to 2007 Verizon permitted use of a handset and their Mobile Office kit to connect to the Internet. If your account was enabled for National Access then you could do this free of charge (it used minutes off your plan). Since 2007 Verizon has eliminated this undocumented feature on their "feature phones". Now, for most people, the only alternative is to purchase some sort of data plan for use with their smartphone or to purchase an aircard that acts as a dedicated cellular modem. For most fulltime RV users, the air card is the preferred option since it is more flexible than a smartphone. Unlike the use of the Mobile Office Kit  that just used your voice plan minutes to send data for "free", an aircard or a smartphone requires a separate data plan.

 

So what exactly IS an aircard? In simple terms, the aircard is a dedicated device (actually a modem) that allows you to send data over the cellular network instead of voice (as with a cell phone). The cellular provider then takes this data from the cell tower and connects it to the internet, just like a home-based ISP does. At home, many people use DSL provided by their local phone companies. There is a device that the computer plugs into called a DSL modem (often combined with a wireless router). The aircard takes the place of this DSL modem. In some regards, the aircard seems very much like a wifi adaptor - it is a wireless device that allows connection to the internet. But the technology used is totally different, although the result is the same.

 

The aircard is inserted into a PC or a "cellular router" and translates the data  into the form that the cell system that you are subscribed to can understand. All of this occurs on the same cell towers that voice calls go through, although it is handled separately. Your air card has it's own "phone number" to identify it - although normally you do not have to know anything about this (except for on your bill).

 

There is currently only one form factor (physical configuration) of aircards used - a USB plug. The older Express Card format is no longer widely used, since all new computers only have USB slots in them.

 

As a "companion" to the aircard you can purchase a cellular router from a third-party supplier to use with your aircard - Verizon, ATT and Sprint do not sell or support conventional cellular routers, with the exception of the MiFi (or MiFi-like) devices that I cover later. The router performs the same function as a "normal" home router does, but it is a special device that "knows about" cellular modems, instead of DSL modems or cable modems.  You can not use your current house router with an aircard - it would not know how to "talk" to it, any more than a DSL router would know how to talk to a cable TV network. Using a cellular router allows you to set up a wireless network just like with a "normal" wireless router. Instead of using DSL or a cable provider for the backhaul (the attachment to the Internet), these special cellular routers allow you to plug your aircard into them for the backhaul.  To talk to your computer, the router uses a wifi connection. You then use your computers wifi connection to access the Internet, just like with a conventional wifi network. (So, from your computer to the cellular router you use wifi; from the cellular router to the internet you use the cellular data system via the aircard.)

The advantage of using the router is multifold:

• Multiple computers can share your aircard connection.

• Your aircard is protected from damage, since it is not being moved around a lot.

• It is more convenient to connect the aircard to an external antenna and/or amplifier.

• You can hardwire a desktop into the LAN port on the router via Ethernet, if required. Or hardwire other devices like a printer or NAS (Network Attached Storage).

• Your laptop battery will last longer than having the aircard directly connected.

• If you have a trailer, the internet connection can be used while driving without moving the aircard to the truck. Everything stays in its place, only your computer is moved to the truck.

• You do NOT have to load Verizon software (VZ Access Manager) on your computer. Many people (including me) have had a lot of problems with this software.

If you are thinking of an aircard instead of a satellite system, or as an alternative to just using WiFi, there are a number of things to consider:

• Most important is the supplier. The cellular companies do not support use of cellular routers other than the mifi-like devices. It is best to use a third party supplier that can provide proper technical support. Personally, I like the 3GStore. They have proven over the years to give superb customer service/support, and their prices are VERY good.

• Which network provider: ATT and Verizon have the fastest data networks and the most towers. Verizon may arguably have the better system, since they are rolling out the 4G broadband faster than ATT, but both are good. Under the current roll-out schdule Verizon is saying the ALL towers will be 4G by mid-2013. While the 4G network is best on Verizon the combination of 3G and 4G on ATT does provide excellent coverage. Millenicom, discussed in the 4G section, has excellent 3G and 4G plans through both Verizon and Sprint. They are probably the best option for 3G-only data. Consider this if you MUST have the best available coverage at all times: a Jetpack on Verizon via WiFiRanger WFRConnect (Millenicom 20 gigabyte service) in COMBINATION with an ATT smartphone with a free hotspot and whatever data plan meets your needs. This way you have access to both networks.

• Which technology:  3G networks are available everywhere at the moment - all carriers support 3G. 4G is the newer "emerging" technology that allows greater speeds. The time has come to buy for 4G, so do not buy anything that is ONLY 3G capable. Including amplifiers and antennas.

• External antenna: ideally, the chosen air card or mifi should have an external antenna port. You WILL need the external antenna in many areas. Make sure that the adaptor cable you need to connect to the antenna cable from the aircard is available. If purchasing a 4G aircard, it should have separate antenna ports for 3G and 4G, since they use different antennas (although there are some antennas that cover all the frequencies).

• With USB modems size of the device varies. Smaller is better, especially if you use it directly in the laptop. Some USB aircards have microSD card slots in them which allow you to store data on them as well.

• Does the card have an inbuilt antenna that can be moved around (and raised) for better reception. This can be critical for best speed but is not as important if always connected to a router and external antenna.

• Does the card work with the router you want. Even if you don't feel you need a router right now, you ought to at least tentatively pick one out and factor that into your decision process. Not all aircards will work with all routers.

• Cost is always an issue. Don't pay for features you do not need.

Important: This is my opinion only, take it for what it is worth. Do not shop price on a router and aircard. Shop service. Especially if you are not a networking expert. If and when something goes wrong you need someone to call.

 

 

Because we fulltime in our RV, and space is at a premium  I initially chose a very compact router. I bought the CradlePoint  CRT350 (now replaced by the CTR35) and a USB aircard to go with it. For the aircard I chose the Verizon USB727 (made by Novatel) because of the compact form factor, the ability to use a microSD card with it, and the fact that it has a very good loop antenna should I choose to use it without the external antenna. Choosing an aircard today, look for a 4G aircard. I own the Pantech UML 290, which has the reputation as one of the better 4G aircards at the time of this writing.

 

The CRT350 is very small, as you can see from the pictures (click to enlarge). Some of the cons of this router are: no external wifi antenna so you can not improve the wifi coverage area with an antenna, it requires a USB aircard (no Expresscard support) and it only supports one LAN connection (for connecting via Ethernet to a desktop, for example).  I bought this technology in (around) 2008. Today you have far better choices. But you still need to consider the same factors.

 

In January 2011 I bought a WiFiRanger.  That is currently my first choice in a cellular router for RV use. There is more info on this router below.

 

 

Along with the proper adaptor cable to hook the external antenna connector on the USB727 to my amplifier, I also purchased the optional car adaptor for the router. This allows me to hook the router to a 12-volt power source and permanently install it in my RV. In my case I originally installed it under the refrigerator where my cellular amplifier lives. The advantage of this is that I always have an internet connection available - even if boondocking or driving down the road. The signal from the internal wifi antenna on the CRT350 is good enough to get through the solid metal cab of my truck without a problem. The picture to the left (from the 3GStore) shows how the four pieces combine to make a complete system. Those are not the exact components I used - but you get the idea. The router hooked to the amp and external antenna maximizes my cellular data signal and allows me to keep connected longer and with faster speeds than just the internal air card antenna. This allows Danielle to use the laptop to check fuel prices, campgrounds, etc. while we are driving. Plus, it is kind of neat to see an email pop up while driving down the road ....With the  WiFiRanger I set it up in a similar fashion. It is always connected in the same location (my communications cabinet) in the RV. We never move it.

 

It used to be that if you exceeded the 5GB of data that Verizon includes with its non-shared data plan you could be cut off. Now, you simply get charged $10 for each additional GB of data. Or, if you are on a shared data plan, you get charged $15/gigabyte of data for overages. But what does 5GB mean to the "normal" user? Five gigabytes a month is 166 MB a day - every day. You would be unlikely to exceed this limit unless you were downloading/uploading very large files routinely, downloading movies, or streaming a lot of video or audio. Software updates can be large so you might consider turning off the automatic download feature and manage software downloads when you are on a wifi system, or when you know the size. The EVDOInfo website (part of the 3GStore) has a good table of what different types of online activity cost in data sizes. It should give you a good feeling about the 5 GB limit. If you are just surfing the web, doing email, updating websites and blogs, and occasionally viewing YouTube videos, then you should never exceed the 5 GB limit. If, however, you run a business online that requires large file uploads, lots of photos, or constant video streaming, then you need to investigate a little closer. I suggest that if you have not had an aircard in the past, and decide to get one, that you monitor your usage on the Verizon website on a daily basis. This will give you a very good idea of what you are using, and you can adjust your data plan as needed. You can adjust your plan online as often as you like - with no service charges - to ensure you do not exceed your plan limits.

 

MiFi and Jetpack Wireless Router/Modem

Verizon, Sprint and AT&T all offer the MiFi for Internet access. The MiFi is a small device that combines a wireless router and cellular modem (aircard) into one device. It is battery-driven, or can be plugged into AC or DC for static location use. The battery lasts about 3-4 hours, or more, depending on use. The device is small enough to slip into a shirt pocket for “walk-around” hotspot capability – or just throw it on the dash of your car. It allows any WiFi-capable device (like an iPod Touch, iPad, Android tablet, or Droid phone for example) to connect to the Internet without any cables or other modifications. In that sense it takes the place of the popular Cradlepoint cellular routers combined with an aircard. All in your pocket. On Verizon the data plan pricing is slightly cheaper than an aircard on the individual service, and on the shared data plan it is the same price as an aircard. However, the equipment cost is less than an aircard and separate router. All the providers now have a 3G/4G device available. On Verizon it is the Jetpack 4620L, shown to the immediate left.

 

 

For the travelling RVer this device at first blush seems like a great alternative to an aircard/cellular router combination. But for most RVers I do not think it is the right choice. But if my issues with it are not applicable to you it may work very well. Only YOU can balance the pros/cons and determine what works the best in your circumstances.

• There is no antenna port on the older MiFi. So a wired antenna/amplifier is not able to be used. If you currently have an antenna and amp, it is useless. Alternative: you can get an amplifier with an inductance patch antenna -  these use a small patch that attaches onto the MiFi with Velcro to pick up the signal. You attach it over the antenna location on the MiFi. Look at the Wilson SignalBoost Model 811211 for an example of these. The new Verizon 4510L 4G MiFi has an external antenna adaptor that handles a combined 3G/4G antenna. So with the newer technology the lack of an antenna is no longer a barrier to use of the MiFi. You can also insert the MiFi into a Wilson Sleek 4G, that I reviewed above. If I was to use the Jetpack I would put it into the Sleek 4G cradle for best performance.
• The MiFi does not allow a physical Ethernet connection – there are no Ethernet ports on it. Only wireless connections are supported. This is not an issue unless you have wired devices you would like to attach, or unless you would like to tether it via Ethernet. It will only tether via USB. And when tethered it only supports that one computer – WiFi is not enabled when tethered.
• WiFi range is limited. About 30’ in most cases. If this is enough then fine, however, the Cradlepoint routers have enough range for you to use them while driving down the road in your RV, or outside around your site. While the MiFi can be moved around to accommodate those needs, it is easier to set something up and leave it in place.
• Only ten simultaneous connections are available. That may be an issue for some people, what with iPod Touches, iPhones, iPads, wireless printers, wifi enabled cameras, storage (NAS backup), and other devices wanting to share the local network.
• You are locked into one piece of hardware that performs two primary functions. There is no way to upgrade just the router or just the modem. As more advanced functions are available in either area, you will not be able to selectively upgrade. For some, that is not a consideration, but you should be aware of it.

Most people purchasing a MiFi on today's market are going to be using 4G at least part of the time. Boosting a 4G signal is problematic at the moment. The only practical way to do it with the Jetpack is to use a Wilson Sleek 4G, which will provide some measure of boost to 3G and 4G bands. In the very near future you will also be able to use a wireless 3G/4G amplification system from Maximumsignal. I am testing this device right now.

I wrote a review on the Wilson Sleek that you can find at the top of this page in the Resource section.

If you ARE interested in a Jetpack or comparable device, my suggestion is to closely look at the WFRConnect package from WiFiRanger. This is described below; it combines a Jetpack  with a WFR router of your choice, and a cellular data plan from Millenicom with 20 gigabytes of data a month. All with no contract.

One note on the  Wilson Sleek Cell Phone Booster. If you use this cradle with a phone you either have to use the speakerphone or a headset/bluetooth adaptor for the car radio.

WiFiRanger

 

   

 Shown above, left to right: WiFiRanger Home, WiFiRanger Mobile with "clamp mount",  WiFiRanger Go

Let me be perfectly clear: for most people one of the WiFiRanger (WFR) routers is the one you should have....read more on why I think so, below. I may seem to be pushing the WiFiRanger - but that is based on its merits, not because I have anything to do with the company (other than acting as a beta tester). There is no other product available that performs all the functions of the WFR with a simple user interface. 

NEW:  As of November 1, 2012 BlueMesh Networks (makers of WiFiRanger products) has agreed to give readers of this website a 5% discount on any WiFiRanger product. To get your discount enter WFRMAYER in the coupon/discount area on their website. I get nothing from this - but if enough people order using that code, perhaps a larger discount will be given in the future :)

        WifiRanger Website (click)

WifiRanger (WFR) is a family of products that enhance connection to wireless (WiFi) networks. It consists of routers and associated radio products that pick up wifi signals, enhance them, and then repeat them for your use on a LAN.  Like home routers they provide for a local network for your use, with both wired and wireless capabilities. What distinguishes the WFR products from conventional home routers is their ability to keep you connected to the Internet in a mobile environment, as well as a fixed environment like a house. They do this by picking up wifi hotspot signals that are too weak for other equipment to capture, and they also permit you to attach a cellular modem for connection to the Internet when wifi hotspots are not available. What differentiates the WiFiRanger family of products from other devices that perform similar functions is 1) the very simple user interface, 2) the ability to capture wifi signals from hotspots that other devices can not even see, and 3) the "Fusion" capability that permits groups of WiFiRanger routers to communicate as if on a single local LAN, even if they are continents apart.

There are two versions of the WiFiRanger routers available: the WiFiRanger Home and WiFiRanger Go. The Home is the former WiFiRanger Pro, and is based on Ubiquity hardware. The newer Go is a more powerful router based on MicroTik hardware. The Go has better receive sensitivity and transmit power than the Home. Thus it can capture wifi better, and provide a longer-range LAN.  Personally, I think there are enough advantages to the Go that it is the one I recommend in all cases. Be aware that for towable RVs, the Home wireless network will be marginal in the tow vehicle. The Go will be easily accessed in the tow vehicle, so you can access the Internet while underway without changes to your network. 

The first picture above is the WiFiRanger Home. It comes with a power supply and a short extension cable for a customer-supplied USB cellular modem. Make sure you use the extension cable, or you could damage the aircard. You can get a 12-volt power supply as well as the 120-volt one if you prefer to hook directly to 12-volt power.

The second picture shows a WiFiRanger Mobile mounted to my batwing antenna. The Mobile and Marine are auxiliary radio/antenna devices whose purpose is to pick up more distant access points or hotspots, and repeat them to the WiFiRanger Home or Go routers for redistribution across your network. These are not just antennas, but powerful radios in and of themselves. They communicate to your Home/Go via Ethernet cable, or wirelessly.

If you order from the WiFiRanger website then you have the option to pre-configure your local network. You supply the SSID and the security code and the device is ready to go when you get it. This makes it very simple to set up. Basically plug it all in, insert your aircard and turn it on. It could not be simpler. If you have an open wifi hotspot visible it will even automatically connect, straight out of the box. Once you are running you will likely want to make some configuration changes. The user interface is very simple - the entire thing is designed for networking novices. So the acronyms and "network talk" are kept to a minimum. If you are uncomfortable reading all the technical stuff here, then the one of the WiFiRanger products is your best bet. It is as simple as it can get.

 

The WiFiRanger Home or Go routers can connect to the Internet via:

• 3G cellular modem
• 4G cellular modem (like Verizon LTE)
• WiFi (called WiFi for WAN)
• Satellite
• DSL
• Cable modem

So what else can it do?

• The local WLAN (wireless LAN) is an "N" network. The routers supports B, G and N wireless standards on the LAN. They use MIMO antenna technology and a radio with 19dBm/79mW of power (Home), or 27 dBm/500 mW (Go), for better range. In difficult reception conditions the router can often connect to wifi networks that your laptop alone could not.
• One USB port for your 3G or 4G cellular modem
• On the Home there are four LAN ports for your hardwired devices and one WAN port, where you plug in your satellite, DSL, or cable modem. Or, you can also use this WAN port to extend your wifi capture via the Mobile or Marine boost device.
• On the Go there is one port for WAN, and three ports for LAN, plus one powered port for a secondary radio device like the Mobile, Marine or SKY to connect to. This powered port eliminates a second power supply for the rooftop device.
• The Go has the ability to connect an external antenna to boost it's range without connecting another radio set like the Mobile/Marine. The Home has no such capability.
• You can have cellular, WiFi and a broadband modem (DSL, Cable or Satellite) all connected at the same time. You can specify the active connection path to the Internet, and the preferred order of use of the others, if your primary connection fails. This capability is called "failover".
• You can have a local wireless network that is a private LAN and another wireless network that is a public LAN. You can share the public LAN and keep it separate from your private LAN. So users on the public network can not access your computers, printers, network storage or other devices.
• The router saves your login credentials for secured wifi hotspots, or for unsecured hotspots requiring login (like the Tengo service found in many RV parks). It can automatically log you into these when they are in range. You can specify the order of use.
• The router automatically scans for wireless networks. It allows you to set up automatic connections based on various criteria like speed.
• It can connect directly to 12-volt power.
• You can easily connect multiple WFR routers together across the Internet to make up an extended private network. They communicate with each other to provide a seamless single network to the end user. This would allow you to access file storage at home if you were travelling in your RV, for example. This capability is called "Fusion".

When would I use a WiFiRanger (WFR)  product?

• A WFR router can replace any cellular router that handles a single cellular modem. It can not replace a multi-modem cellular router if you need that feature. Most people do not need to run multiple aircards at the same time, so the WFR effectively replaces most cellular routers.
• If you want to extend your ability to connect to wifi networks this is the best device available. Why? Because it has an integrated ability to use wifi as your Internet connection, easy configuration, auto-failover to your cellular modem, and MOST IMPORTANT, it has the Mobile/Marine boosting capability. No other product has such an integrated capability to boost your wifi signal.
• If you want a single LAN that all your devices connect to this is likely the best router family for you. Mainly because it has a good wireless radio, an excellent MIMO antenna, and very good range.  Allowing all your devices to connect to just your local LAN and never having to reconfigure them as you move locations is a very convenient feature. The Home does not have an external wireless antenna for your local LAN, so if you need extreme range locally you need to evaluate this router carefully. For your local network the Home should provide connections within any RV, or just outside it. If you want to extend the range of your LAN you should choose the Go, which has more range.
• You could use either WFR router (depending on range) to simplify sharing a common Internet connection with a close neighbor via the "mesh" feature. Only one location would need an Internet connection. The second location would use the WFR to pick up the wireless signal and repeat it locally. While you can do the same thing with other technology, the WFR makes setup and management far simpler.

What competes with the WiFiRanger?

• The Cradlepoint CTR35, MBR95, MBR1400 and other Cradlepoint routers in the new NetBSD OS family have WiFi as WAN (ability to repeat a wifi signal), as well as the ability to handle cellular modems. But they do not have the Mobile/Marine capability to "boost" your wifi signal. The Pepwave Surf OTG also has WiFi as WAN and a cellular modem capability and is probably the closest in function to the WFR products. But it has limited router function, and less ability to capture signal. You can read a test report I did on the Pepwave Surf OTG here.

When would I NOT buy the WiFiRanger?

• Frankly, there is little reason not to buy it. For most people that need a mobile router it will be a good choice. However there are some things to consider.
• Size: it is bigger than the CTR35 or the MiFi/Jetpack. The MiFi/Jetpack can not act as a wifi hotspot repeater, but for the ultimate in cellular mobility you can't beat the size of the MiFi.
• It can not perform load balancing across multiple cellular devices like the Cradlepoint CTR500, MBR1000 or MBR1200 can. Most people do not need this feature. For more on load balancing see the excellent article on EVDOInfo.com (if the link is broken look at the MBR1200 router information).
• Make sure the WFR router handles your aircard. It only works with USB cards.
• It may not handle your physically tethered phone. If you need to tether, make sure this will meet your needs. You can always connect a phone hotspot to the WFR routers - but that does result in some speed loss.

below, WiFiRanger Go (in white) on top of WiFIRanger Home

Shown to the left is my "communications closet". You can see the two WiFiRanger routers in the center - the Home is on the bottom, and the Go is the white box on top of it. Unless I'm testing, I only use the Go - it is a superior router in my opinion.  You can not see it, but my USB 4G LTE Pantech UML290 (Verizon) modem is plugged into the Go with a 4' USB cord and is velcro'ed on the upper part of the cabinet door. All my equipment is connected straight to 12 volt power - you can see the fuse center upper/right. The other router you see is an older Cradlepoint 1000. That is my basis of comparison - the 1000 is a very reliable and capable router, so I test against it. Not shown are some other routers I test against - Cradlepoint 1200, 95, 900, 35, 350. I also have most of the Pepwave products.

If you look carefully, you will see two cat5 cables coming out a hole in the lower left of the picture. These go into a 1.5" conduit to a junction box on the roof and connect to various devices. At the moment, only the Mobile is being used (in the picture nothing is plugged into the router). The blue cat5 connects to a 4 terabyte NAS drive (2x2 mirrored) on the shelf above.

The Go router has more than enough range for me to connect to it while driving - and that is through a metal back wall on the truck. Thus, I never have to change the network devices to have Internet while in motion.

 

Issues

You may hear of "issues" using the WiFiRanger routers. They have an innovative and easy to use interface to a complex set of "back-end" capabilities. This interface shields the user from having to understand complex networking issues. But it can also introduce issues. I have to say, that the latest firmware is pretty good and it keeps improving. The only real problem I have seen is that you have to occasionally reboot (power cycle) the router. How often varies, but I tend to do it every several days. No big deal. I think it is associated with a memory leak in the firmware code, because if you leave the user interface to the router configuration running then you have to power cycle more often. But that is just a guess. Nevertheless, it is a an easy issue to "work around", and the benefits of using the router are so great that it is worth rebooting once in awhile.

 Of all the products I own I run the WiFiRanger Go.

 

 

 

 

WiFiRanger Mobile/Marine

   

      WiFiRanger Mobile - deck mount, above; ladder mount, right

The purpose of the WFR Mobile or WFR Marine is simple - it captures a wifi signal from a hotspot, sends it to the WiFiRanger router, and then it is repeated for your personal network. The first generation of the WiFiRanger product family had a WFRBoost Mobile and WFRBoost Fixed for capturing distant wifi hotspots. The boost Mobile is now called the WiFiRanger Mobile and there is a version with a higher-performing antenna called the Marine. They perform the same functions - the Marine has a better antenna on it for the more challenging marine environment. Both the Mobile and Marine are based on Ubiquity Bullet hardware with proprietary WiFiRanger firmware running the show. The WFRBoost Fixed is no longer available. If you have an older WFRBoost you can use it with the newer routers - it is still compatible.

The Mobile has a 28dBm/600mW radio with a 3dBi omni antenna. The Marine has a 28dBm/600mW radio and an 8dBi omni antenna. The only difference is the antenna.

WiFiRanger routers have the ability to interact seamlessly with the Mobile or Marine. The Mobile and Marine are a separate carrier-grade radio with its own antenna that is able to act as a wifi repeater. It picks up the wifi signal with its powerful antenna and then sends it via an Ethernet cable up to 250' to the WiFiRanger. Or if configured properly it can send the signal wirelessly. There the original wifi signal is repeated on the local WLAN for your use. This provides the ability to capture wifi from much greater distances than just using the WiFiRanger Home or Go router by itself. If you read the section on CPEs (Customer Premises Equipment), below, you will understand that the WFRBoost is a carrier-grade device configured as a CPE (in the case shown here a Ubiquity Bullet).

           WiFiRanger Marine

Until now it has been very difficult for people not experienced with networking to configure and manage CPEs . The WiFiRanger software integrates the configuration and management of the Mobile/Marine into a single Control Panel with a simple web interface. It greatly simplifies dealing with a set of complex network devices and allows the average user to gain the benefit that formerly was only available to those willing to learn enough about networking to deal with setting up these devices.

The set of pictures just above shows the roof mount version of the Mobile on the left.  The more common mounting method is also shown  - it is a ladder-mount clamp. The ladder mount is used to mount to the batwing antenna shown in the picture at the start of the WiFiRanger section.

If you plan on capturing WiFi signals with the WiFiRanger then I strongly suggest that you consider the merits of a Mobile/Marine to do so. While the Go router has a very good radio/antenna set in it, it is still not as capable as a when it is combined with a Mobile. However, if you are just looking to "improve" capture in an RV park or other environment where your laptop alone can connect to the AP (access point, or hotspot) then the Go alone may be sufficient. You could start with it an then add a Mobile if required.

The WiFiRanger Mobile or Marine overcome ALL of the issues with wifi signal capture in RVs.

• It is located on the roof, so it has better line-of-sight to the wifi hotspot
• It has a very good antenna, so it performs better
• It uses Ethernet Cat5 cable to connect to the WiFiRanger router, so there is no signal attenuation like found with a remotely mounted router antenna (such as Jefa routers with an antenna extension).
• It has a powerful radio; the Mobile/Marine has a 600mW radio with automatic power negotiation. Contrast this to the typical laptop antenna with a 10-15mW radio. This allows for longer-distance transmissions to the WiFi Access Point (hotspot).
• The Mobile/Marine has a very good radio receiver in it. It is far more sensitive than most consumer wifi radios, so it can operate at longer distances from the hotspot.

WFRConnect

WFRConnect is a packaging of various WiFiRanger products with Millenicom cellular data service. The device used for cellular connection is the Novatel Jetpack 4620L 3G/4G mobile hotspot on the Verizon network. This comes pre-packaged with a 20GB data limit (10GB on 3G and 10GB on 4G). There is no contract and the price of the Jetpack hardware is included in the package price. You do pay a $69.99 monthly charge to Millenicom, but that is a total price - no taxes as you would have with Verizon.

You can buy this package with the Jetpack and one of the following: 1) the Go router, 2) the Mobile (no router, the Jetpack or Mobile is configured for that function), 3) the Go and the Mobile.

This is an outstanding all-in-one solution. Since there is no contract required, if the Jetpack is replaced with a superior modem in the future it is a simple matter to change to it. The only "negative" associated with using a Jetpack is that the extra wireless "hop" does affect performance. They are working on a solution to directly connect the Jetpack to the WFR router via the USB port. I would expect this to be available in a future firmware release.

 

WiFiRanger Capabilities

Just an example of the capabilities:

1. Without the Mobile, in one park my WiFiRanger Home picked up 8 SSIDs (access points). With the Mobile activated I could see 54  SSIDs. That is quite a difference. (There were 15 park APs. The rest were private routers in homes or other RVs.)
2. In another case, using the Mobile I logged into an RV Park wifi network 1.1 miles from my RV. I was slightly higher than the park and had clear line-of-sight to the park APs. My signal rssi was -86 dBi.
3. Using the same equipment as the Mobile but with a different antenna, I have established connections between two points 5 miles apart. You won't be able to pick up APs that far away - I just used this as an example of the power of the units. But using a Mobile or Marine will greatly enhance your ability to pick up wifi. And if the Access Point you want to pick up is transmitting with enough power, and the landscape allows, connecting at over two miles should not be a problem.

No other mobile router on the market has a device like this integrated with it. This is a unique capability and it alone is reason enough  to buy a WiFiRanger Home or Go, in my opinion.

click to expand

There are more pictures of the Mobile in my Picasa Album, along with an example of mounting a home-built version of the Mobile on a batwing.

For the more technically inclined, the Mobile is a Ubiquity Bullet. The Mobile version (Bullet) is married to a short Laird omni antenna and mounted on a nice aluminum mount that can mount to your ladder or to your batwing.

Shown in the picture series above on the far left is a Bullet, and a Bullet with an 8dbi omni antenna mounted to it, much like the Marine. The second picture is my "homebuilt" Mobile that was used for testing the Boost feature (firmware) before the WiFiRanger hardware was available, temporarily mounted to the ladder of my RV. The third picture shows a Bullet mounted to a painters pole. This is a temporary mount - strap it to the ladder once it is raised. The fourth picture shows a Bullet held in a commercial bracket intended for mounting  Access Points. This mount can hold things in any position.

You can use the Nanostation in place of the Mobile if you want a directional capability. In fact, you can use any AirOS device that can be placed in Station mode (don't worry if you don't understand this - it's for the "techies"). You can also use a Bullet with your antenna of choice (directional or omni).

If you would like to build your own equivalent hardware package to the Mobile/Marine take a look at Building Your Own CPE. I recommend that you buy the commercial version, though.

 

 

Dream Cellular Internet System

 

If I could start over again and money was no object then this is what I would buy. Make sure you check these items out for yourself - things change rapidly in electronics and this may not be current info, or it may not be applicable to your needs. Be especially careful to understand the router and its features/limitations as they apply to you.

• Provider: Verizon.  I've recently given up my grandfathered "unlimited" aircard plan as moved to the shared data plan.

• Aircard: USB 760 from Verizon for 3G service. For 4G I would use whatever the latest 4G USB aircard was, ensuring that it had an antenna port. At the moment that is the Pantech UML290.

• Cellular Router: WiFiRanger Go. This handles 3G and 4G networks. If I did not want the Go, then the Cradlepoint MBR95 from 3GStore.

• Amplifiers: Because wireless 4G amplifiers are about to be launched, I would wait for them to be available. They should be on the market by December 2012.

• Antennas: It depends on the mounting location, see discussion in the antenna section. For permanent mount on RV roof, the Wilson RV (with adaptor to mate to Cyfre amp). For side mount or temporary mount, the Maximum Signal Super Trucker. For use on a car the Maximum Signal magnetic mount. For 4G (Verizon 750 mhz) many of the available antennas cover this frequency, but you have to check the specifications carefully. The SCT wireless amp kit comes with two very good antennas, but only handles 3G at the moment. A 4G version will be available soon.

A Viable Alternative - Smartphone Hotspots

 

Since many (if not most) people have smartphones today - either Android or iPhones - there is a viable alternative for Internet access using your phones hotspot. All cellular phones/providers make available what is known as a "hotspot" capability for the phone. This uses the cellular data system to connect to the Internet, and it uses the phones wifi capability to broadcast a local network that 5-10 devices can connect to. With this capability you do not need a cellular router or aircard. That saves you considerable money, and with the hotspots now "free" with the shared data plans it is a solution that may work for some users. What is the downside? First, if the phone goes, so does the hotspot. If each person has a phone that can run a hotspot, that can be overcome. But the network name will change, very likely. Also, there is no provision to hardwire devices like with a router.

 

Combining this hotspot capability on the phone with the WiFiRanger Go router offers a very nice solution. The Go can "failover" automatically between Internet connections. So if you are normally on Park WiFi and that becomes unavailable, your phone could be the secondary connection. And if that phone is unavailable, the second phone can be used. Automatically. This way the network name stays the same, and if one phone leaves the area the other is automatically used. The only downside to this is that both phones must have the hotspot running - this uses quite a bit of battery, so you would want the phones to be plugged into a charger.

 

This covers connectivity - but what about amplification of the cellular signal? To provide this you would use a wireless cellular amplifier. The 4G versions of these are expected to be available in September 2012.

 

Using this solution can save you the cost of an aircard, but it does add some complexity. And an aircard is only $20/month on the shared data plan....so it may not be worth it.

WiFi

First, it is helpful to understand a little about how wifi works, some of the jargon, and the technical limitations of the technology. Wifi is a two-way radio system that operates on the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands. For our purposes, we will assume that we are dealing with 2.4 GHz radios, since that is what is commonly used by a consumer device. Like any radio system, it takes “two to tango” – the wifi radio in your laptop, smartphone, tablet or other device has to “talk to” the Access Point (AP) set up by the provider of the wifi system. This AP (Access Point) is the radio that eventually connects you back to the Internet. If this provider is an outside company selling/providing the service they are generically referred to as the WISP (Wireless Internet Service Provider). Examples of a WISP might be Tengo (a popular RV park wireless provider), a city-wide wifi system, or a provider of wifi to a hotel complex. When WISP’s set up wireless networks in geographically distributed areas there are often “dead spots” in radio coverage. These areas may have signal available, but to most wifi devices the signal is not strong enough to effectively use. In many cases a CPE device (Customer Premises Equipment) is used by the WISP to pull the signal in rather than put in more APs. This is cheaper for the operator and more effective for the end user in most cases. More about these CPEs later.

Before you can connect to any wifi network you have to discover the network. One of the best tools for seeing what wifi networks are available around you is inSSIDer, which is free wifi scanning software. It will tell you lots of things about the network that many of the tools that are included with your computer will not.

OK, enough of the acronyms. Now that we have a little background info, let’s look at what affects your wifi experience. Since we are dealing with radios, the obvious things are power, and blocking the line-of-sight to the AP. Radio waves at the 2.4 GHz frequency are pretty easily blocked by dense objects like cement walls, anything with water in them, and metal. The typical RV park is a pretty hostile environment: you have an RV with (perhaps) metal sides next to you that blocks your line-of-sight (LOS) to the AP, and you are in trees. The trees have water in the leaves/needles/branches, which is very bad for signal propagation.  In addition, you are using a laptop or other device with a weak radio in it, and you are often pretty far (in relative terms) from the AP. Providing wifi in a typical RV park is a very challenging technical problem from both from the providers view, and the consumers view – which is why so many people experience issues with it.

In summary, the issues with wifi are typically (in order):

• Weak radio in laptop

• Poor antenna in laptop

• Line of sight to the AP is compromised (this covers issues with trees, hills, buildings, RVs blocking the signal and height of YOUR antenna)

A Better WiFi Adaptor

The typical laptop or consumer wifi-enabled device has a radio in it with 10-15mW (milliwatts) of power (or less).  And the antenna is built into the device, which is not the optimal situation. The simplest and cheapest way to improve wifi performance is to replace this radio and antenna set with an improved wifi adaptor with an external antenna - these connect to the computer through a USB cable. This new adaptor should have more power output, and a higher performing antenna on it – it might even have a directional antenna (like a panel) that you have to point at the signal source (the AP). Simply turn off the in-built wifi adaptor, and follow the instructions for installing and using the new one. It is pretty simple – everyone should be able to do this. Look for an adaptor with at least 200mW of power, a removable antenna and the ability to plug in a longer USB cable. Plugging in a longer cable (up to a 16’ passive cable) allows you to position the new adaptor in the best location for reception – like maybe high in a window of your RV. Note that you are now “tethered” to the device – you have a cord coming from the laptop to the device, so it somewhat limits mobility.  And you have only improved that one laptops connection.

The picture shows an Alpha adaptor (Alfa AWUS036NH), but there are other good adaptors on the market. Often these come with a more powerful antenna - as pictured there is a 9dbi magnetic mount antenna included with the adaptor, as well as the inbuilt one (which is removable). This particular Alpha has a 2000mW radio - although testing shows it does not perform at that level, it is still a very powerful radio. The online price is usually around $40. There is a similar 1000mW version of the Alpha that is usually cheaper, and adequate for this application. Popular manufacturers of these high-power external adaptors are Alpha, Orinoco, RealTek, and Hawking.  Meritline.com usually has high-powered adaptors for reasonable prices.

Typically, these better adaptors are used with a longer USB cable to position them on the side of the RV where the AP is. Often they are mounted to a window - either with included suction cup mounts, or with Velcro. You can get a "passive" USB cable up to 16'. If you need a USB cable over 16’ look at some of the “active” cables like this one that allows for 10 meters between your laptop and the adaptor. Just make sure anything you buy in an extension cable has the correct ends on it. Why would you need such a long cable? Remember that line-of-sight to the Access Point is critical for best reception, and having the long cable allows you the option of better positioning the adapter. These adapters are not waterproof, but they can be put into glad storage containers (or Rubbermaid containers) and positioned on the roof of the RV if required. They can even be elevated on painters poles like shown for the Wilson cellular antenna in the Antenna section earlier on this page. You just need to make sure you weatherproof them.

A simple USB adaptor is typically an under $50 solution, but it is for a single device. What if you want to be able to support multiple devices at the same time? Well, you could deploy multiple USB adaptors if you are just dealing with laptops – but these don’t work for many other wifi-enabled devices. Usually, with multiple devices you want a local area network (LAN) that all your devices connect to, and then that connects to the Internet through an aircard or wifi. This allows all your devices to just know about your private network and you don’t have to keep changing things around on individual devices when you find another wifi network to access the Internet.  But now you “get to” manage a network of your own. This can keep you up at night when things go wrong.

Improved Radio with Local LAN

While an external USB adaptor can greatly improve your wifi experience, it only works for the single computer that it is attached to. It will not help you with your other devices. For that you need to supply your own local network that all of your devices can connect to. The wifi network you connect through will supply the Internet service for your local LAN, and you will then redistribute this on your local wireless/wired network for your other devices. This is the same as using a cable modem or DSL modem to supply your Internet "backhaul" and then redistributing it. The difference is that you are using the RV Park or other providers wifi signal for the connection to the Internet, instead of a "hard wired" backhaul like DSL or cable. Some manufacturers of devices are calling this ability to use wifi as the backhaul WiFi as WAN. This expression comes from using the wifi connection as the  Wide Area Network (WAN) - in this context WAN simply means the source of the Internet connection. For a cellular router you could as easily say "cellular as WAN".

The easiest way for a novice to have a local wireless network and connect to wifi as the backhaul to the Internet is probably with the PepWave Surf Mini, which has a 200mW transmitter in it (there is also a 400mW version). The PepWave combines the ability to hook into RV Park wifi, and simultaneously support a personal wireless LAN  just for your use. It is relatively easy to configure and manage, but you do have to understand a little about networking. It is available through many sources, but because a networking novice may run into issues I recommend that you purchase it through the 3GStore; if you run into issues you will have help a phone call away. If you buy it off of EBay who are you going to call when you have a configuration issue?

The PepWave can also be connected to the WAN port of a router - either a cellular router or a conventional router like a Linksys. Properly configured, this allows the PepWave to essentially operate as the WiFi as WAN for any router. Another reason to buy from the 3GStore is that they provide configuration details on how this is done, and if you mess it up you can call them.

There is now a newer version of the Pepwave Surf called an OTG (On The Go). This integrates a cellular modem capability into the existing Pepwave Surf functions. You can read a test report on this latest Surf product here.

The PepWave is nice, but it has limitations. First, it is an indoor device – it is not weatherproof so you cannot put it on the roof of the RV (although some have done so in a weatherproof enclosure). Second, although it has an external antenna with an RP-SMA male connector it can be complicated to extend this antenna to the roof, where it would get best reception. Third, if you need more than one Ethernet port you will have to add a switch to it, or connect it as a WiFi as WAN device to something like a Cradlepoint 1000 that has LAN ports. Normally, I recommend that the PepWave be high up on a window on the side of the RV that faces the AP.  It comes with suction cups to mount it this way. If you can get any sign of the wifi signal on your laptop without the PepWave, then the PepWave will be a good solution for you – use inSSIDer for discovering the signal strength of the networks in the area.

The WiFiRanger Home and Go routers are devices that operate much like the PepWave OTG. What differentiates the WFR (WiFiRanger) from the PepWave OTG,  is its LAN ports. It is also a general-purpose router, not just a specific-function device like the PepWave. It is much more flexible, and it has a pretty easy user interface for configuration and management. The WFR will also handle interfacing to a remote CPE (customer Premises Equipment) on the roof of your RV or residence. This solves one of the issues with wifi-capture that the other devices do not; that of having clear line of sight to the AP.

The WFR provides the most flexibility and greatest feature set of the products available on the market today. It can support 3G and 4G cellular modems, satellite, DSL, Cable and WiFi as WAN sources. It can then repeat those signals wirelessly on its N wireless network (it also supports G devices). It has LAN ports for your wired network devices like printers, TV, or Network Attached Storage (NAS). It will automatically "failover" between WAN sources - in other words if you are connected via wifi and that network goes down, it will automatically connect you to the cellular network (or any other network you have available). For improved wifi capture it can use Ubiquity products in its "boost" mode. This is fully integrated with the Control Panel, so you do not have to manually mange multiple devices. All of these capabilities have been present in the past - just not in a single device with a simple user interface. The WiFiRanger is discussed in detail in its own section.

Another product that does a similar thing is the Cradlepoint CTR35 wireless N router. The CTR35 supports “wifi as WAN” just like the WFR, as well as data sources from cellular, cable, and DSL modems – just like the WFR. It retails for slightly under the price of the WFR. I have not yet tested the CTR35, but Cradlepoint certainly has a good track record in bringing cellular routers to the market. Also available from Cradlepoint are the MBR95, MBR1400 and the CBR400 - these also handle WiFi as WAN (most of the newer versions of the Cradlepoint routers will likely feature WiFi as WAN). None of the Cradlepoint routers support an integrated connection with a remote CPE (WiFiBoost), like the WFR will.

There are other solutions that combine portions of what we have discussed to solve wifi connection issues. To round out a sampling of them take a look at the following: Jefa Tech, RadioLabs. If you look carefully at the solutions you see advertised you will notice that the products solve one or more of the following issues, in order of sophistication and cost:

• Power – most have advanced higher-powered transmitters in them.
• Antenna – either a better antenna, or an antenna that can be remotely mounted for better line of sight (LOS) to the AP
• Multiple users – a local WLAN (wireless LAN) so that you can connect multiple devices to the same Internet connection
• Multiple Internet (backhaul) sources – the ability to handle wifi, cellular modems, DSL, cable modems, etc. Sometimes all in one device.

So what device or combination of devices “does it all”? That would be a router that handled multiple Internet sources and had good local connectivity (your local LAN) in combination with a remote (rooftop) CPE for the best wifi capture. Today, the only device that does that is the WiFiRanger family of products.

 

Customer Premises Equipment (CPE)

CPE is a general term used to refer to devices that contain a radio set and antenna and are used to pick up the wifi signal (or other type of signal) and then provide it to your  LAN or computer. They may be specialty devices, intended to only be used to bridge between the broadcast network and your private LAN, or they may be a generalized carrier-grade radio that can function in multiple fashions – as a bridge, a router, an AP, etc. A CPE has a higher powered radio than that available in your laptop, a better antenna, and it is mounted outside with clear line of sight (LOS) to the AP (Access Point). Thus it solves the biggest issues with wifi reception (LOS, power, antenna quality). The CPE is directly wired to your router or your computer with Ethernet cable – which is a digital signal that can be sent around 300’ without degradation. This overcomes the typical issue with extending an antenna from your wifi adaptor; an antenna connection is analog and the signal degrades rapidly when sent over a long antenna cable.

Shown to the left is a Deliberant radio deployed as a CPE. This particular model has a 14dbi panel antenna built into it, and 500mW of power. It is capable of connections in excess of five miles when connecting to another radio of the same type in point-to-point or AP mode, and capable of connecting to wifi networks at a mile or more when used as a client bridge (CPE). Of course, that is under nearly ideal conditions. While use of this carrier-class equipment provides for a very good signal capture, it also adds a great deal of complexity to the solution. This is why most people do not deploy it. It requires the end user to understand the device, how to configure it, how to design the network, how to install and (perhaps) build Ethernet lines, and how to successfully interface the CPE to the local LAN. Because these CPEs have typically been sold to professional installers, there are few instructions with them – they are simply not aimed at the consumer market.  The WFRBoost available with the WiFiRanger is an example of a CPE - it is the first CPE packaged with a consumer product, and with configuration integrated with the wireless router. Because the WFBoost has integrated configuration and management with the WiFiRanger software, it is the first easy to use CPE in the consumer marketplace.

You can also mount a CPE on the roof of a truck or other vehicle. On the left you can see a small outside omni antenna (black)  just behind the roof rack, with a Ubiquity Bullet connected to it thru the roof. Of course, you need the inside space to mount the radio if you do it this way. In this case you can connect the CPE to a wireless router like the WiFiRanger and repeat the signal, or you could just hardwire it to the Ethernet port of a laptop or a miniature desktop computer dedicated to servicing the vehicle. It would allow easy capture of signals at hotels, shopping malls, fast food restaurants, libraries, etc. If you are looking for a mini desktop for vehicle use take a look at the Asus Eee Box series.

There are many commercial radios on the market that are used to deploy wifi networks. Almost all of them can be used as CPEs with proper configuration. My preferred CPEs are from Ubiquity and Deliberant. Both companies make highly configurable devices that are priced right and are very reliable. Over the years I’ve used many of their products to deploy both wifi networks, and as CPEs.

My favorite CPEs at the moment are the Ubiquity Bullet or Nanostation. The Bullet is easily combined with an omni antenna (shown on the left, temporarily mounted to the ladder), and the Nanostation has an in-built directional antenna, so you have two methods of signal capture. When using a directional antenna you have to carefully consider the mounting method, and your willingness to aim the device before use. Directional antennas provide for better signal capture over longer distances, and in more difficult circumstances – but the downside is determining where the wifi signal originates, and then aiming the CPE. Typically, directional antennas are best used in fixed locations that are permanent, while omni antennas provide for a good method of signal capture on mobile vehicles like an RV. Some people do mount directional antennas on RVs, but typically this is not necessary for RV Park, or close-in signal capture. An 8dbi omni antenna, combined with a Ubiquity Bullet, will pull in wifi signal from 800-3000’ pretty readily. Of course it does somewhat depend on the quality of the signal from the AP.

You can set up a CPE to capture and feed wifi signal to any router. You do not need special routers like the WiFiRanger. However, if you go that route, you will be responsible for configuring and managing the CPE as well as the router for your local LAN. It requires an understanding of IP addressing and some of the details of network setup. In the WiFiRanger these details are handled by the firmware in the Ranger - you never have to directly access the CPE device itself.

You can download my DIY Guide to Building Your Own CPE by clicking the link. You can save this file as a PDF for offline reference. It will get you started.

If you would like to "play around with" a CPE and interface it to your existing Cradlepoint (or other) router, and feel you have the time and skills to do so, then I would recommend you use a Ubiquity Bullet as your CPE. This is relatively low cost (around $50 with the Ethernet injector), has a nice small form factor to work with, and allows for a choice of antennas. I would recommend a short 8dbi omni antenna which you can find for around $30 if you look carefully online. You can mount it to your ladder, like I show in the picture, or you can look at the Antenna section here, and utilize a mount attached to the batwing TV lift. The Bullet is 100mW and generally priced at $39, Bullet2 is 400mW, the Bullet M (newest model, part of the AirMax family) is 600 mW and  the Bullet2HP is 1000mW (around $80). These require the POE15 HD27012 Power Over Ethernet injector (15 volt) and can take up to a 24-volt POE for longer distances. For use with an RV I'd recommend the Bullet (100 mW) or the Bullet2HP; the M models are not needed in this application. The Bullets can run off of 9-24 volt power, depending on the distance of the cat5 cable. For RV use with runs around 60' you can usually eliminate the 120-volt transformer and directly connect the injector to 12-volt battery power. However, you have to maintain polarity. If you don't know what you are doing, don't do this.

Here is how to configure it, for those interested - this should work for any AirOS device:

To set up an AirOS device as a CPE (client bridge) you can use this document from the Ubiquity website. If that link no longer works, you can download it from here.

To set up a bridge between two locations (like to share an Internet connection between two houses) read this wiki on the Ubiquity website.

WARNING:

When configuring or setting up these devices you will be using a "Power over Ethernet" power injector. This supplies power to the device over the Ethernet line. Four of the eight lines inside the Cat5 cable are used for power, and four are used for data between the CPE and your router or computer (when directly connecting to it for configuration). MAKE SURE that you plug your computer or router into the LAN side of the injector - sometimes labeled "Data". If you mistakenly plug it into the "Power" or "POE" connector directly it very likely will burn up your Ethernet port on your computer. The POE line goes to the CPE, NOT to your computer or router.

Powering Your Devices

 

Amplifiers and routers require an outside power source. Both can run on either 12-volt or 120-volt. When installing your system you really should set it up for 12-volt use. This will allow you to use everything when boondocking or when driving down the road. In particular, the router needs to be on when driving if you want Internet access. It is useful to get emails, and to search for points of interest or look at live weather radar while travelling. You will have the technology - why not use it. If you set up everything for 12 volts then there will be no shuffling of cables on travel day, or when boondocking.

 

You may have to order a 12-volt adaptor for the router. Most of the amplifiers come with the 12-volt hookup. You may also have to locate the devices near an existing 12-volt plug, or wire in a new 12-volt service to supply them in your chosen location. This is generally possible to do without too much trouble. Just make sure you use heavy enough wire if you have to add a new 12-volt outlet. There are voltage drop tables in the Solar sections of this website.

 

You don't have to worry about the antenna - they are passive devices. They need no power.

 

My Setup

 

I currently use the following:

• My local LAN is driven by a WiFiRanger Go. On that LAN are a wireless multifunction printer, three full-size laptops (15" and two 17"), a Eee Netbook, a Nexus 7 Android tablet and a Galaxy S III smartphone. For storage there is a four terabyte NAS (Network Attached Storage with 2x2 mirrored drives). The DTV satellite receiver and TV are also on the LAN and are hardwired through a switch in the entertainment center. I also have my Morningstar MPPT 60 solar controller hardwired to the router. This permits me direct data capture on the performance of the solar array. There is a WF2IR device on the network that takes a wifi  signal from my tablet or phone, and converts it to IR (infrared)  to control AV equipment from the tablet.

• In addition to the WiFiRanger Go and Home I also have a Cradlepoint 1000 permanently mounted in my communications center next to the WFR. That is my "standby" router, and is what I used prior to the WiFiRanger(s). If something happens to the WFR then it is a simple matter to move a few lines to the Cradlepoint: one USB line for the aircard, and three Ethernet lines (one for the CPE, one for the NAS, and one for a switch that feeds the TV and DTV receiver at the entertainment center).

• Samsung Galaxy SIII smartphone. This can connect through my local LAN as well as the cellular network. Everything I do is Google based to the extent possible, so it is totally integrated between the smartphone and the computers.

• I have a hand-built WFRBoost (CPE) on the roof of the RV attached via Ethernet to the WiFiRanger Go. I built this from on-hand components. I also have a WifiRanger Mobile on the roof which is what I typically am using. This is the commercial version of what I hand built.  Prior to my using the WiFiRanger I used the CPE I built directly connected to the Cradlepoint 1000. Since I have various radios available to me my CPE varies with what I have on hand, but has been a Bullet for some time. For a directional CPE I use a Nanostation (NS2) when I need it.

• I use a Pantech UML290 4G LTE aircard on the Verizon network. This is plugged into the WiFiRanger's USB port via a USB cable. The aircard is connected to a Cyfre wired amp when used on 3G and the antenna is a Wilson RV.