Communications on the Road

 

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Internet on the Road

• Millenicom
• 4G Technology
• Cellular Data Modems and Routers
• MiFi Router
• WiFiRanger Intelligent Router
• WFRBoost
• "Dream" Cellular Internet System
• WiFi
• Powering Your Devices
• My Setup

 

Introduction

 

Millenicom

Millenicom (www.millenicom.com) is a reseller of mobile (cellular) broadband. They sell plans on the Sprint and Verizon 3G and 4G network.  The Advanced Plan is Verizon. This gives you 20 gigabytes a month with no contract. You have to buy their aircard - you can not use your card, if you have one. The Unlimited Plan and the BYOD Plan are both Sprint, and have an effective limit of 50 gigabytes a month. On all the plans you can keep the aircard they supply when you terminate service. There are setup charges, but no termination charges.

The current plans (as of 11/2011) are offering a 3G/4G Verizon hotspot capability with a Samsung "mifi"-like device that is a combination wireless router/aircard. For early adopters you get 10 gigabytes of 4G data and an additional 10 gigabytes of 3G data for a promotional price of $70/month, with no contracts. It sounds like a great deal if you want to get on 4G cheaply....but is it?  Many people who are mobile travelers have tried this hardware and returned it. It seems to have issues transitioning between 3G/4G. Also, there is no antenna port on this - so you need to be in a good signal area. You also need to be able to live with the limitations of a mifi-like device. So evaluate this carefully before jumping on it.

Millenicom can not tell you who provides the network for the various plans - it is part of their resellers agreement. But the information above is accurate. On both the Verizon and Sprint service you get full access to the network, just like a "native" customer. There are no restrictions or throttling of data.

4G Technology

4G is the term coined by the cellular carriers to refer to the new/next generation of transmission standards for cellular voice and data. While what is currently available is not truly 4G by definition of the standards bodies, it is still marketed as 4G to represent the fact that it requires new equipment, and is significantly faster than the current 3G technology. Effective actual speeds of Verizon LTE have been seen in use up to 42 mbps. This is actual use - not theoretical. As the systems become loaded Verizon says the expected speeds will be in the 5-12 mbps area (downloads), or perhaps a little faster. Still quite fast compared to today's 3G speeds, which average in use up to 1.2 mbps or so.

Verizon and Sprint (along with its partner Clearwire) have the largest 4G networks at the moment. Verizon's service is called LTE and they started the rollout in December, 2010. It operates initially on the new 700 MHz bandwidth in many locations - but it can be on any of the Verizon bands (700, 800 and 1900 mhz). Because it may operate on a different frequency than the existing network it requires new modems (aircards), perhaps new external antennas, and new amplifiers. Sprint's service is called Mobile WiMAX and operates on the 2.5 GHz band. It also requires new equipment. While the newer services do require equipment upgrades, it is worth the trouble and expense for the greater speed and better integration of voice and data on a pure IP network. From an end-user perspective through 2011 the issue is the degree of availability of the networks. Neither network is widespread enough that most RVers will be able to take advantage of it - yet. By early to mid 2012 this should change. But if you do frequent areas where 4G is available you will want to take advantage of the speed. AT&T has an HSPA+ network that has higher speeds than their previous networks. They will move to LTE starting in mid 2011, but this will take some time. While the HSPA+ network is not bad, it is not that widely deployed. AT&T has a pretty poor data network when compared to the other providers, but if it is prevalent in your area it may be the only choice, or the best choice.

All of the vendors currently provide aircards that can handle 3G and 4G. Many no longer sell 3G-only aircards even in early 2011, and I expect that will be the trend as we go forward. The issue with the current crop of 3G/4G cards is that they are new technology, and like anything new there are some issues with them switching between 3G and 4G. These issues will be worked out as the new networks are deployed, and I don't expect this will be an issue long.

So what do you do?

If you are a current Verizon user of the 3G system Verizon has made moving to 4G attractive by pricing a 5GB/month 4G data service at $50 ($10 cheaper than your current 3G service). This can save you money if you are on a 5GB contract and not grandfathered into the unlimited plan. If you move to the 4G plan, even with an overage of 1GB for a month (total use 6GB) you would only pay your regular $60, since data overages on the 4G plan are $10/1 GB. Not a bad deal. And you can get 10 GB for $80. The Pantech 4G aircard works on the 3G system with your current antennas and amps, but if you want those same capabilities on the 4G system you need additional equipment - which is not yet available, but should be in late Q1 2011. Keep that in mind. The best Verizon modem for 4G is the Pantech LTE UML290. This has dual antenna ports - one for 3G and one for 4G.

Sprint users can get unlimited 4G for $60 a month and fall back to 5GB of 3G on that plan. So if you frequent a 4G Sprint area that is a great bargain. Most people will consume more data on 4G because of the available speeds. But if you are most often in a 3G Sprint area you get no real benefit from the 4G pricing plan, and Verizon would be a better deal. And history has shown that Verizon will roll out the network faster and more broadly than Sprint - another factor to keep in mind.

If you are new Verizon aircard user, you have no choice but to go to the 4G plan, since they no longer market the 3G data plan for aircards. However, new users who want 3G should buy the Millenicom Advanced Plan, which will give you 20 GB a month on the Verizon network with no contract. Check them out at Millenicom.com. Once the 4G networks are more prevalent you can switch over to 4G, since you are not under contract. If you live or work in a 4G area then you will probably want to go right to 4G.

The cellular companies constantly change pricing plans. Verizon recently released a new "tiered"-structure data plan that I included below. 3G modems are not shown in the chart, but are still priced at $60/5GB for current users. New users have to go to 4G. I included this only to give you an idea of the data plan structure - you need to go look at the Verizon plans directly on their site when researching your best option.

 

Cellular Data Modems and Routers

Prior to 2007 Verizon permitted use of a handset and their Mobile Office kit to connect to the Internet. If your account was enabled for National Access then you could do this free of charge (it used minutes off your plan). Since 2007 Verizon has been eliminating this undocumented feature. Now, for most people, the only alternative is to purchase some sort of data plan for use with certain tethered handsets or to purchase an aircard that acts as a dedicated cellular modem. For most fulltime RV users, the air card is the preferred option since it is more flexible than a tethered handset. Unlike the use of the Mobile Office Kit  that just used your voice plan minutes to send data for "free", an aircard requires a separate data plan.

 

So what exactly IS an aircard? In simple terms, the aircard is a dedicated device (actually a modem) that allows you to send data over the cellular network instead of voice (as with a cell phone). The cellular provider then takes this data from the cell tower and connects it to the internet, just like a home-based ISP does. At home, many people use DSL provided by their local phone companies. There is a device that the computer plugs into called a DSL modem (often combined with a wireless router). The aircard takes the place of this DSL modem. In some regards, the aircard seems very much like a wifi adaptor - it is a wireless device that allows connection to the internet. But the technology used is totally different, although the result is the same.

 

The aircard is inserted into a PC or a "cellular router" and translates the data  into the form that the cell system that you are subscribed to can understand. All of this occurs on the same cell towers that voice calls go through, although it is handled separately. Your air card has it's own "number" to identify it - although normally you do not have to know anything about this (except for on your bill).

 

There are currently only two form factors (physical configurations) of aircards used. One is a USB connection, and the other uses the Express Card format to plug into the computer or cellular router. The older PC Card format is no longer widely used, since all new computers only have USB and Express card slots in them. Most aircards are now the USB form factor - and I would not buy a card that was not.

 

As a "companion" to the aircard you can purchase a cellular router from a third-party supplier to use with your aircard - Verizon and Sprint do not sell or support conventional cellular routers, with the exception of the MiFi (or MiFi-like) devices that I cover later. The router performs the same function as a "normal" home router does, but it is a special device that "knows about" cellular modems, instead of DSL modems or cable modems.  So you can not use your current house router with an aircard - it would not know how to "talk" to it, any more than a DSL router would know how to talk to a cable TV network. Using a cellular router allows you to set up a wireless network just like with a "normal" wireless router. Instead of using DSL or a cable provider for the backhaul (the attachment to the Internet), these special cellular routers allow you to plug your aircard into them for the backhaul.  To talk to your computer, the router uses a wifi connection. You then use your computers wifi connection to access the Internet, just like with a conventional wifi network. (So, from your computer to the cellular router you use wifi; from the cellular router to the internet you use the cellular data system via the aircard.)

The advantage of using the router is multifold:

• Multiple computers can share your aircard connection.

• Your aircard is protected from damage, since it is not being moved around a lot.

• It is more convenient to connect the aircard to an external antenna and/or amplifier.

• You can hardwire a desktop into the LAN port on the router via Ethernet, if required. Or hardwire other devices like a printer or NAS (Network Attached Storage).

• Your laptop battery will last longer than having the aircard directly connected.

• If you have a trailer, the internet connection can be used while driving without moving the aircard to the truck. Everything stays in its place, only your computer is moved to the truck.

• You do NOT have to load Verizon software (VZ Access Manager) on your computer. Many people (including me) have had a lot of problems with this software.

If you are thinking of an aircard instead of a satellite system, or as an alternative to just using WiFi, there are a number of things to consider:

• Most important is the supplier. The cellular companies do not support use of cellular routers other than the mifi-like devices. It is best to use a third party supplier that can provide proper technical support. Personally, I like the 3GStore. They have proven over the years to give superb customer service/support, and their prices are VERY good.

• Which network provider: Sprint and Verizon have the fastest networks and the most towers. Verizon may arguably have the better system, since they are rolling out the broadband faster than Sprint, but both are good. The 4G network is arguable at the beginning of 2011, but I'm betting on Verizon and recommend them. ATT does have a data system, but it does not have as much nationwide coverage. Millenicom, discussed in the 4G section, has excellent 3G plans through both Verizon and Sprint. They are probably the best option for 3G-only data. Virgin Mobile has an unlimited plan through the Sprint network that is currently $40/month, but be advised that if you exceed 5GB in a month they throttle you back to 256kbps for the rest of that billing period.

• Does the aircard support Rev. A networks? Do not buy a card that does not. Rev A networks provide faster upload speeds. All new cards these days should support Rev A. This is no longer an issue unless you are buying a used aircard.

• Which type of aircard: USB or Expresscard? Both work equally well, but ExpressCard modems are pretty rare these days. I recommend only USB cards. USB will work on desktops or laptops, but are more prone to connector damage. If you are not using a router then damage to the aircard is a serious consideration with USB.

• Which technology:  3G networks are the norm at the moment - all carriers support 3G. 4G is the newer "emerging" technology that allows greater speeds. You will eventually want to go to 4G, so make sure you buy a router that will support it. You may want to put off jumping immediately to 4G, and stick with 3G for now - read the 4G section below.

• External antenna: the chosen air card should have an external antenna port. You WILL need the external antenna in many areas. Make sure that the adaptor cable you need to connect to the antenna cable from the aircard is available. If purchasing a 4G aircard, it should have separate antenna ports for 3G and 4G, since they use different antennas (although there are some antennas that cover all the frequencies).

• With USB modems size of the device varies. Smaller is better, especially if you use it directly in the laptop. Some USB aircards have microSD card slots in them which allow you to store data on them as well.

• Does the card have an inbuilt antenna that can be moved around (and raised) for better reception. This can be critical for best speed but is not as important if always connected to a router and external antenna.

• Does the card work with the router you want. Even if you don't feel you need a router right now, you ought to at least tentatively pick one out and factor that into your decision process. Not all aircards will work with all routers.

• Cost is always an issue. Don't pay for features you do not need.

Important: This is my opinion only, take it for what it is worth. Do not shop price on a router and aircard. Shop service. Especially if you are not a networking expert. If and when something goes wrong you need someone to call. 3GStore has an excellent track record of providing outstanding service. Take my advice and buy your aircard and router from them. You are far more likely to get issues resolved with their technical support than any other way I know of.

 

 

Because we fulltime in our RV, and space is at a premium - plus I only need the wireless connectivity provided by the wifi portion of the cellular router - I initially chose a very compact router. I bought the CradlePoint  CRT350 and a USB aircard to go with it. For the aircard I chose the Verizon USB727 (made by Novatel) because of the compact form factor, the ability to use a microSD card with it, and the fact that it has a very good loop antenna should I choose to use it without the external antenna.

 

The CRT350 is very small, as you can see from the pictures (click to enlarge). Some of the cons of this router are: no external wifi antenna so you can not improve the wifi coverage area with an antenna, it requires a USB aircard (no Expresscard support) and it only supports one LAN connection (for connecting via Ethernet to a desktop, for example).  These were not issues for my use at the time, but they might be for your particular situation.  Note that when connected to the router the aircard sticks out quite a bit. It is definitely subject to damage to the USB connector if knocked about. The newer alternative to this router is the CRT500. The biggest difference between them is that the 500 has an external wifi antenna for better range and supports Expresscards. Other than that they have about the same functions and form factor. The CRT500 costs a bit more, but is worth the price difference. I would choose it over the CRT350. The CTR 500 also supports 4G networks, which is a critical router feature going forward.

 

If I wanted more connectivity options (LAN and WAN) and the flexibility of an "N" wifi network plus external antennas then I would look carefully at the Cradlepoint MBR1000 router (look here for a review and specs). The disadvantage of this router (in my view) is that it is much larger, and costs considerably more. It does have external antennas to increase its range - but they are not removable. However, it has some great features if you need them. At the time I bought my original router the MBR1000 was not available. In December 2010 I did acquire an MBR1000 from the 3GStore, and it is superior in most ways to the 350. But it is BIG. Not an issue in my application, but for some it may be. The beauty of the 1000 is that it has better range, and I can easily attach more than one device to the LAN ports. It is also able to handle 4G aircards - the 350 will not handle 4G devices. In January 2011 I acquired a WiFiRanger.  There is more info on this new router below.

 

Along with the proper adaptor cable to hook the external antenna connector on the USB727 to my amplifier, I also purchased the optional car adaptor for the router. This allows me to hook the router to a 12-volt power source and permanently install it in my RV. In my case, it is located under the refrigerator where my cellular amplifier lives. The advantage of this is that I always have an internet connection available - even if boondocking or driving down the road. The signal from the internal wifi antenna on the CRT350 is good enough to get through the solid metal cab of my truck without a problem. The picture to the left (from the 3GStore) shows how the four pieces combine to make a complete system. Those are not the exact components I used - but you get the idea. The router hooked to the amp and external antenna maximizes my cellular data signal and allows me to keep connected longer and with faster speeds than just the internal air card antenna. This allows Danielle to use the laptop to check fuel prices, campgrounds, etc. while we are driving. Plus, it is kinda neat to see an email pop up while driving down the road ....With the new MBR1000 and WiFiRanger I set it up in a similar fashion. It is always connected to a dedicated Cyfre amp and Wilson Trucker antenna.

 

I chose the Cradlepoint router because it has the reputation for holding a stable connection and has good manufacturer support for firmware updates. Unlike the older KR1/DLink it has never reset the connection. I was concerned with the lack of an external WiFi antenna, since I wanted to be able to use my computer outside and in the truck. But the range of the Cradlepoint WiFi is more than enough for that - I'm getting at least 50-75' of very usable connection distance. After four years of use I am still totally satisfied with this configuration of equipment. I upgraded to the MBR 1000 mostly because of the "N" networking and the ability to connect more than one device to the router. The combination of equipment I chose may not meet your needs, so you need to consider the factors above when planning your purchase. Plus, like everything else electronic,  there are constantly new products available. Usually better and cheaper than the old ones. So make sure you investigate the latest equipment.

 

The 3GStore is a great resource for technical info, and they can help you with your decisions. They are also cheaper than Verizon, and most importantly will provide you excellent technical support after the sale. Verizon will not provide adequate technical support for an air card or router (including the MiFi which they sell).

 

It used to be that if you exceeded the 5GB of data that Verizon includes with its plan you could be cut off. Now, you simply get charged $10 for each additional GB of data. But what does 5GB mean to the "normal" user? Five gigabytes a month is 166 MB a day - every day. You would be unlikely to exceed this limit unless you were downloading/uploading very large files routinely, downloading movies, or streaming a lot of video or audio. Software updates can be large so you might consider turning off the automatic download feature and manage software downloads when you are on a wifi system, or when you know the size. The EVDOInfo website (part of the 3GStore) has a good table of what different types of online activity cost in data sizes. It should give you a good feeling about the 5 GB limit. If you are just surfing the web, doing email, updating websites and blogs, and occasionally viewing YouTube videos, then you should never exceed the 5 GB limit. If, however, you run a business online that requires large file uploads, lots of photos, or constant video streaming, then you need to investigate a little closer.

 

MiFi Wireless Router/Modem

Verizon, Sprint and AT&T all offer the MiFi for Internet access. The MiFi is a small, playing card-sized device that combines a wireless router and cellular modem (aircard) into one device. It is battery-driven, or can be plugged into AC or DC for static location use. The battery lasts about 3-4 hours, or more, depending on use. The device is small enough to slip into a shirt pocket for “walk-around” hotspot capability – or just throw it on the dash of your car. It allows any WiFi-capable device (like an iPod Touch, iPad, Android tablet, or Droid phone for example) to connect to the Internet without any cables or other modifications. In that sense it takes the place of the popular Cradlepoint cellular routers combined with an aircard. All in your pocket. The data plan pricing is the same as an aircard. However, the equipment cost is less than an aircard and router. Recently Sprint has made a 4G MiFi available - this handles 3G and 4G networks. Verizon also just announced the MiFi 4510L 4G modem.

 

 

For the travelling RVer this device at first blush seems like a great alternative to the Cradlepoint router/aircard combination. But for most RVers I do not think it is the right choice. But if my issues with it are not applicable to you it may work very well for you. Only YOU can balance the pros/cons and determine what works the best in your circumstances.

• There is no antenna port on the older MiFi. So a wired antenna/amplifier is not able to be used. If you currently have an antenna and amp, it is useless. Alternative: you can get an amplifier with an inductance patch antenna -  these use a small patch that attaches onto the MiFi with Velcro to pick up the signal. You attach it over the antenna location on the MiFi. Look at the Wilson SignalBoost Model 811211 for an example of these. The new Verizon 4510L 4G MiFi has an external antenna adaptor that handles a combined 3G/4G antenna. So with the newer technology the lack of an antenna is no longer a barrier to use of the MiFi.
• The MiFi does not allow a physical Ethernet connection – there are no Ethernet ports on it. Only wireless connections are supported. This is not an issue unless you have wired devices you would like to attach, or unless you would like to tether it via Ethernet. It will only tether via USB. And when tethered it only supports that one computer – WiFi is not enabled when tethered.
• WiFi range is very limited. About 30’ at best. If this is enough then fine, however, the Cradlepoint routers have enough range for you to use them while driving down the road in your RV, or outside around your site. While the MiFi can be moved around to accommodate those needs, it is easier to set something up and leave it in place.
• Only five simultaneous connections are available. That may be an issue for some people, what with iPod Touches, iPhones, iPads, wireless printers, wifi enabled cameras, storage (NAS backup), and other devices wanting to share the local network.
• You are locked into one piece of hardware that performs two primary functions. There is no way to upgrade just the router or just the modem. As more advanced functions are available in either area, you will not be able to selectively upgrade. For some, that is not a consideration, but you should be aware of it.

If you have a MiFi and find that you need to boost the signal there are several options. First, you can add an external antenna and connect it to the MiFi with an inductive antenna adaptor (shown above). This works acceptably and may boost the signal enough. If you need more boost, you can combine this with an amplifier of your choice and still use the inductive connection from the amp to the MiFi. But Cyfre makes an interesting alternative if it meets your needs. It is a combination cradle/amplifier that holds the Mifi (or a phone, like a Droid X), provides an RF port for a physical antenna connection, and amplifies the signal. The MiFi or phone MUST be in the cradle for it to work. Take a look at it on the Maximumsignal website. This works well with the Cyfre 819 wired amplifier referenced above. Wilson also makes a cradle that you can find on the 3GStore website: Wilson Sleek Cell Phone Booster. If you use either cradle with a phone you either have to use the speakerphone or a headset/bluetooth adaptor for the car radio.

WiFiRanger

   

                        WiFiRanger                                         WFRBoost (Ubiquity Bullet with antenna)

Let me be perfectly clear: for most people this new router is the one you should have....read more on why I think so, below. I may seem to be pushing the WiFiRanger - but that is based on its merits, not because I have anything to do with the company (other than acting as a beta tester). There is no other product available that performs all the functions of the WFR with a simple user interface. The best place to purchase it is the 3GStore - they will provide you great customer support, should you need it.

The WifiRanger (WFR) is a wireless router. Like home routers it provides for a local network for your use, with both wired and wireless capabilities. What distinguishes it from conventional home routers is its ability to keep you connected to the Internet in a mobile environment, as well as a fixed environment like a house.

To the left is the packaged WiFiRanger. It comes with a power supply and a short extension cable for the USB cellular modem. Make sure you use the extension cable, or you could damage the aircard. If you order the RV version you will get a 12-volt power supply as well as the 120-volt one. If you order from the 3GStore you need to order the 12-volt power supply separately.

If you order from the WiFiRanger website they have been pre-configuring your local network for you. You supply them the SSID and the security code and the device is ready to go when you get it. This makes it very simple to set up. Basically plug it all in, insert your aircard and turn it on. It could not be simpler. If you have an open wifi network visible it will even automatically connect, straight out of the box. Once you are running you will likely want to make some configuration changes. The user interface is very simple - the entire thing is designed for networking novices. So the acronyms and "network talk" are kept to a minimum. If you are uncomfortable reading all the technical stuff here, then the WFR is your best bet. It is as simple as it can get.

 

The WiFiRanger can connect to the Internet via:

• 3G cellular modem
• 4G cellular modem (Verizon LTE)
• WiFi (called WiFi for WAN)
• Satellite
• DSL
• Cable modem

So what else can it do?

• The local WLAN (wireless LAN) is an "N" network. The router supports B, G and N wireless standards on the LAN. It uses MIMO antenna technology and a radio with 19dBm of power, for better range. In difficult reception conditions the router can often connect to wifi networks that your laptop can not.
• One USB port for your 3G or 4G cellular modem
• There are four LAN ports for your hardwired devices
• There is one WAN port, where you plug in your satellite, DSL, or cable modem. Or, you can also use this WAN port to extend your wifi capture via the WFRBoost.
• You can have cellular, WiFi and a broadband modem (DSL, Cable or Satellite) all connected at the same time. You can specify the active connection path to the Internet, and the preferred order of use of the others, if your primary connection fails.
• You can have a local wireless network that is a private LAN and another wireless network that is a public LAN. You can share the public LAN and keep it separate from your private LAN. So users on the public network can not access your computers.
• The router saves your login credentials for secured wifi networks, or for unsecured networks requiring login (like Tengo service found in many RV parks). It can automatically log you into these when they are in range. You can specify the order of use.
• The router automatically scans for wireless networks. It allows you to set up automatic connections based on various criteria like speed.
• It can connect directly to 12-volt power.
• You can "mesh" multiple WFRs together to make up an extended network. They communicate with each other to provide a seamless Internet capability.

When would I use this?

• The WFR can replace any cellular router that handles a single cellular modem. It can not replace a multi-modem cellular router if you need that feature. Most people do not need to run multiple aircards at the same time, so the WFR effectively replaces most cellular routers.
• If you want to extend your ability to connect to wifi networks this is the best device available. Why? Because it has an integrated ability to use wifi as your Internet connection, easy configuration, auto-failover to your cellular modem, and MOST IMPORTANT, it has the WFRBoost capability. No one else has an integrated capability to boost your wifi signal.
• If you want a single LAN that all your devices connect to this is likely the best router for you. Mainly because it has a good wireless radio, an excellent MIMO antenna, and very good range.  Allowing all your devices to connect to just your local LAN and never having to reconfigure them as you move locations is a very convenient feature. It does not have an external wireless antenna for your local LAN, so if you need extreme range locally you need to evaluate this router carefully. But for anything within 100-200' it should suffice. If you want to extend the range of your local LAN you could mesh together two or more WiFiRanger Pro's to "fill in the holes".
• You could use this router to simplify sharing a common Internet connection with a close neighbor via the "mesh" feature. Only one location would need an Internet connection. The second location would use the WFR to pick up the wireless signal and repeat it locally. While you can do the same thing with other technology, the WFR makes setup and management far simpler.

What competes with the WiFiRanger?

• The Cradlepoint CTR35, MBR95, MBR1400 and other Cradlepoint routers in the new NetBSD OS family have WiFi as WAN (ability to repeat a wifi signal). But they do not have the WFRBoost feature. The Pepwave Surf OTG also has WiFi as WAN and a cellular modem capability. But it has limited router function. You can read a test report I did on the Pepwave Surf OTG here.

When would I NOT buy the WiFiRanger?

• Frankly, there is little reason not to buy it. For most people that need a mobile router it will be a good choice. However there are some things to consider.
• Size: it is bigger than the CTR35 or the MiFi. The MiFi can not act as a wifi repeater, but for the ultimate in mobility you can't beat the MiFi.
• It can not perform load balancing across multiple devices like the Cradlepoint CTR500, MBR1000 or MBR1200. Most people do not need this feature. For more on load balancing see the excellent article on EVDOInfo.com (if the link is broken look at the MBR1200 router information).
• Make sure the WFR handles your aircard. It only works with USB cards.
• It may not handle your tethered phone. If you need to tether, make sure this will meet your needs.

There are two versions of the WiFiRanger available: the WiFiRanger and WiFiRanger Pro. The main difference in the Pro model is the ability to interface to the WFRBoost capability. But the Pro is also used for better IP management, MotoSat interface, and for meshing. I recommend the Pro because of its ability to interface to the WFRBoost - this is a capability that most RVers will want.

I STRONGLY recommend that you buy the WiFiRanger Pro from the 3GStore. The support you will receive if you do happen to have an issue is second to none, and alone is reason enough to buy from them. Look here for the WiFiRanger Pro.

If this was going to be my only mobile router I previously recommended that people wait a little to buy. I now believe that the router is stable enough for most peoples use that you can buy with a very good likelihood that you will have no major problems. The manufacturer is VERY responsive to issues and listens to their user base.

 

 

WiFiRanger Boost (WFRBoost)

   

 

The WiFiRanger has the ability to interact with a separate device called the WFRBoost (this comes in Mobile and Fixed versions). The WFRBoost is a separate carrier-grade radio with its own antenna that is able to act as a wifi repeater. It picks up the wifi signal with its powerful antenna and then sends it via an Ethernet cable up to 250' to the WiFiRanger. There it is repeated on the local WLAN for your use. This provides the ability to capture wifi from much greater distances than just using the WiFiRanger by itself. If you read the section on CPEs (Customer Premises Equipment) you will understand that the WFRBoost is a carrier-grade device configured as a CPE (in the case shown here a Ubiquity Bullet). You  can download the data sheet here.

Until now it has been very difficult to configure and manage CPEs for people not experienced with networking. The WiFiRanger integrates the configuration and management of the WFRBoost into the Control Panel with a simple web interface. It greatly simplifies dealing with a set of complex network devices and allows the average user to gain the benefit that formerly was only available to those willing to learn enough about networking to deal with setting up a separate network device.

The top set of pictures shows the roof mount version of the WRFBoost Mobile. The LED lighted version is not yet commercially available.

What you see in the picture to the left is the WiFiRanger at the bottom, the device on the left is on the roof of the RV - the mount shown is a ladder or batwing antenna mount. It has a set up U-bolts to clamp a vertical surface. The WFRPod supplies power to the rooftop unit via POE (power over Ethernet). It's power source is either 12 volt DC or 120 volt AC - it comes standard with both capabilities. With the WiFiRanger you also get a 120 volt power brick and a 5' USB cable. The entire thing - WiFiRanger Pro cellular router, the rooftop unit with its powerful (separate) radio/antenna, "clamp" mounting bracket and the power pod retails for $299.99. This is an outstanding value for what you are getting.

If you plan on capturing WiFi signals with the WiFiRanger then I strongly suggest that you want to use a WFRBoost to do so. In fact, in my opinion, every RV installation of the WiFiRanger should be using a WFRBoost Mobile, unless you do not intend to use wifi at all.

The WFRBoost overcomes ALL of the issues with wifi signal capture in RVs.

• It is located on the roof, so it has better line-of-sight to the wifi Access Point
• It has a very good antenna, so it performs better
• It uses Ethernet Cat5 cable to connect to the WiFiRanger, so there is no signal attenuation like found with a remotely mounted router antenna (such as Jefa routers with an antenna extension).
• It has a powerful radio; the standard Boost has a 100mW radio, and you can get a Boost with up to a 1000mW radio. Contrast this to the typical laptop antenna with a 10-15mW radio. This allows for longer-distance transmissions to the WiFi Access Point (AP).
• The Boost has a very good radio receiver in it. It is far more sensitive than most consumer wifi radios, so it can operate at longer distances from the AP.

Just an example of the capabilities:

1. Without the Boost, in one park my WiFiRanger picked up 8 SSIDs (access points). With the WFRBoost activated I could see 54  SSIDs. That is quite a difference. (There were 15 park APs. The rest were private routers in homes or other RVs.)
2. Using the WFRBoost Mobile I logged into an RV Park wifi network 1.1 miles from my RV. I was slightly higher than the park and had clear line-of-sight to the park APs. My signal rssi was -86 dbi.
3. Using the same equipment as the WFRBoost, I have established connections between two points 5 miles apart. You won't be able to pick up APs that far away - I just used this as an example of the power of the units. But using a WFRBoost will greatly enhance your ability to pick up wifi. And if the Access Point you want to pick up is transmitting with enough power, and the landscape allows, connecting at over two miles should not be a problem.

No other router on the market has a device like this integrated with it. This is a unique capability and it alone is reason enough  to buy a WiFiRanger Pro, in my opinion.

click to expand

There are more pictures of the WFRBoost Mobile in my Picasa Album, along with an example of mounting a home-built version of the Boost on a batwing.

For the more technically inclined, the WFRBoost Mobile is a Ubiquity Bullet and the WFRBoost Fixed is a Ubiquity Picostation. The Mobile version (Bullet) is married to a short Laird omni antenna and mounted on a nice aluminum mount that can go on the top of your RV. It is shorter than a standard RV air conditioner, and is available in brushed aluminum, or black anodized aluminum. There are (optional) colored LEDs mounted behind the laser-cut logos - much like you see on the feed horn arm of the Motosat TV satellite receivers - blue LEDs are shown here. A very sexy mount - pictured in brushed aluminum, at the start of this section.

Shown in the picture series above on the far left is a Bullet, and a Bullet with an 8dbi omni antenna mounted to it. The second picture is my "homebuilt" WFRBoost that was used for testing the Boost feature (firmware), temporarily mounted to the ladder of my RV. The production model will  mount the Bullet as shown in the opening photos in this section. The third picture shows a Bullet mounted to a painters pole. This is a temporary mount - strap it to the ladder once it is raised. The fourth picture shows a Bullet held in a commercial mount intended for mounting Deliberant Access Points. This mount can hold things in any position.

You can use the Nanostation in place of the WFRBoost if you want a directional capability. In fact, you can use any AirOS device that can be placed in Station mode (don't worry if you don't understand this - it's for the "techies"). You can also use a Bullet with your antenna of choice (directional or omni). You do not have to buy the hardware packaged by the WiFiRanger factory - although that is what I would recommend, since the packaged solution they supply is superior to what you can otherwise obtain.

Some people have been using Deliberant hardware as wifi capture devices - including myself, for many years. These will not work as a WFRBoost. I've been considering developing the software required to utilize the Deliberant products with the WFR, but the Bullet is really an ideal CPE in this context, so it 's unlikely I'll spend the time to enable the Deliberants. I've been using Bullets exclusively in recent years for CPEs.

If you would like to build your own WFRBoost take a look at Building Your Own CPE. I recommend that you buy the commercial version, though.

 

 

Dream Cellular Internet System

 

If I could start over again and money was no object then this is what I would buy. Make sure you check these items out for yourself - things change rapidly in electronics and this may not be current info, or it may not be applicable to your needs. Be especially careful to understand the router and its features/limitations as they apply to you.

• Provider: Verizon. I'm grandfathered into the old unlimited plan. If starting service now, I would go with Millenicom for 3G data service (they do offer 4G with a Samsung "mifi" device - but that device has issues) and buy their "Advanced Plan" which gives you 20 gigabytes of data a month and places you on the Verizon network. There is no contract commitment with Millenicom - you can cancel at any time. I'll move to 4G when it becomes more widely available and will almost certainly stay with the Verizon network.

• Aircard: USB 760 from Verizon for 3G service. By the end of 2011 I would probably go with the Pantech LTE UML290 4G modem (or its replacement). This does 3G and 4G and has antenna ports for both.

• Cellular Router: WiFiRanger (WFR). This handles 3G and 4G networks. If I did not want the WiFi as WAN capability, then the Cradlepoint MBR1000 from 3GStore (note, my choice used to be the MBR900, but there have been a high number of failures of the 900 recently). This has available firmware to handle 4G.

• Amplifiers: two amplifiers - one dedicated to data and the other to all other functions. The data amp would be a Cyfre wired amp with its own antenna. The second amp would cover all other devices - voice, tablets, eReaders, etc. It would be an SCT wireless "Large RV" amplifier from Maximumsignal.net. As of this writing, there are no amps available for the Verizon 700mhz frequency that is used for 4G - but that should change shortly.

• Antennas: It depends on the mounting location, see discussion above. For permanent mount on RV roof, the Wilson RV (with adaptor to mate to Cyfre amp). For side mount or temporary mount, the Maximum Signal Super Trucker. For use on a car the Maximum Signal magnetic mount. For 4G (Verizon 700 mhz) many of the available antennas cover this frequency, but you have to check the specifications carefully. The SCT wireless amp kit comes with two very good antennas.

 

WiFi

First, it is helpful to understand a little about how wifi works, some of the jargon, and the technical limitations of the technology. Wifi is a two-way radio system that operates on the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands. For our purposes, we will assume that we are dealing with 2.4 GHz radios, since that is what is commonly used by a consumer device. Like any radio system, it takes “two to tango” – the wifi radio in your laptop, smartphone, tablet or other device has to “talk to” the Access Point (AP) set up by the provider of the wifi system. This AP (Access Point) is the radio that eventually connects you back to the Internet. If this provider is an outside company selling/providing the service they are generically referred to as the WISP (Wireless Internet Service Provider). Examples of a WISP might be Tengo (a popular RV park wireless provider), a city-wide wifi system, or a provider of wifi to a hotel complex. When WISP’s set up wireless networks in geographically distributed areas there are often “dead spots” in radio coverage. These areas may have signal available, but to most wifi devices the signal is not strong enough to effectively use. In many cases a CPE device (Customer Premises Equipment) is used by the WISP to pull the signal in rather than put in more APs. This is cheaper for the operator and more effective for the end user in most cases. More about these CPEs later.

Before you can connect to any wifi network you have to discover the network. One of the best tools for seeing what wifi networks are available around you is inSSIDer, which is free wifi scanning software. It will tell you lots of things about the network that many of the tools that are included with your computer will not.

OK, enough of the acronyms. Now that we have a little background info, let’s look at what affects your wifi experience. Since we are dealing with radios, the obvious things are power, and blocking the line-of-sight to the AP. Radio waves at the 2.4 GHz frequency are pretty easily blocked by dense objects like cement walls, anything with water in them, and metal. The typical RV park is a pretty hostile environment: you have an RV with (perhaps) metal sides next to you that blocks your line-of-sight (LOS) to the AP, and you are in trees. The trees have water in the leaves/needles/branches, which is very bad for signal propagation.  In addition, you are using a laptop or other device with a weak radio in it, and you are often pretty far (in relative terms) from the AP. Providing wifi in a typical RV park is a very challenging technical problem from both from the providers view, and the consumers view – which is why so many people experience issues with it.

In summary, the issues with wifi are typically (in order):

• Weak radio in laptop

• Poor antenna in laptop

• Line of sight to the AP is compromised (this covers issues with trees, hills, buildings, RVs blocking the signal and height of YOUR antenna)

A Better WiFi Adaptor

The typical laptop or consumer wifi-enabled device has a radio in it with 10-15mW (milliwatts) of power (or less).  And the antenna is built into the device, which is not the optimal situation. The simplest and cheapest way to improve wifi performance is to replace this radio and antenna set with an improved wifi adaptor with an external antenna - these connect to the computer through a USB cable. This new adaptor should have more power output, and a higher performing antenna on it – it might even have a directional antenna (like a panel) that you have to point at the signal source (the AP). Simply turn off the in-built wifi adaptor, and follow the instructions for installing and using the new one. It is pretty simple – everyone should be able to do this. Look for an adaptor with at least 200mW of power, a removable antenna and the ability to plug in a longer USB cable. Plugging in a longer cable (up to a 16’ passive cable) allows you to position the new adaptor in the best location for reception – like maybe high in a window of your RV. Note that you are now “tethered” to the device – you have a cord coming from the laptop to the device, so it somewhat limits mobility.  And you have only improved that one laptops connection.

The picture shows an Alpha adaptor (Alfa AWUS036NH), but there are other good adaptors on the market. Often these come with a more powerful antenna - as pictured there is a 9dbi magnetic mount antenna included with the adaptor, as well as the inbuilt one (which is removable). This particular Alpha has a 2000mW radio - although testing shows it does not perform at that level, it is still a very powerful radio. The online price is usually around $40. There is a similar 1000mW version of the Alpha that is usually cheaper, and adequate for this application. Popular manufacturers of these high-power external adaptors are Alpha, Orinoco, RealTek, and Hawking.  Meritline.com usually has high-powered adaptors for reasonable prices.

Typically, these better adaptors are used with a longer USB cable to position them on the side of the RV where the AP is. Often they are mounted to a window - either with included suction cup mounts, or with Velcro. You can get a "passive" USB cable up to 16'. If you need a USB cable over 16’ look at some of the “active” cables like this one that allows for 10 meters between your laptop and the adaptor. Just make sure anything you buy in an extension cable has the correct ends on it. Why would you need such a long cable? Remember that line-of-sight to the Access Point is critical for best reception, and having the long cable allows you the option of better positioning the adapter. These adapters are not waterproof, but they can be put into glad storage containers (or Rubbermaid containers) and positioned on the roof of the RV if required. They can even be elevated on painters poles like shown for the Wilson cellular antenna in the Antenna section earlier on this page. You just need to make sure you weatherproof them.

A simple USB adaptor is typically an under $50 solution, but it is for a single device. What if you want to be able to support multiple devices at the same time? Well, you could deploy multiple USB adaptors if you are just dealing with laptops – but these don’t work for many other wifi-enabled devices. Usually, with multiple devices you want a local area network (LAN) that all your devices connect to, and then that connects to the Internet through an aircard or wifi. This allows all your devices to just know about your private network and you don’t have to keep changing things around on individual devices when you find another wifi network to access the Internet.  But now you “get to” manage a network of your own. This can keep you up at night when things go wrong.

Improved Radio with Local LAN

While an external USB adaptor can greatly improve your wifi experience, it only works for the single computer that it is attached to. It will not help you with your other devices. For that you need to supply your own local network that all of your devices can connect to. The wifi network you connect through will supply the Internet service for your local LAN, and you will then redistribute this on your local wireless/wired network for your other devices. This is the same as using a cable modem or DSL modem to supply your Internet "backhaul" and then redistributing it. The difference is that you are using the RV Park or other providers wifi signal for the connection to the Internet, instead of a "hard wired" backhaul like DSL or cable. Some manufacturers of devices are calling this ability to use wifi as the backhaul WiFi as WAN. This expression comes from using the wifi connection as the  Wide Area Network (WAN) - in this context WAN simply means the source of the Internet connection. For a cellular router you could as easily say "cellular as WAN".

The easiest way for a novice to have a local wireless network and connect to wifi as the backhaul to the Internet is probably with the PepWave Surf Mini, which has a 200mW transmitter in it (there is also a 400mW version). The PepWave combines the ability to hook into RV Park wifi, and simultaneously support a personal wireless LAN  just for your use. It is relatively easy to configure and manage, but you do have to understand a little about networking. It is available through many sources, but because a networking novice may run into issues I recommend that you purchase it through the 3GStore; if you run into issues you will have help a phone call away. If you buy it off of EBay who are you going to call when you have a configuration issue?

The PepWave can also be connected to the WAN port of a router - either a cellular router or a conventional router like a Linksys. Properly configured, this allows the PepWave to essentially operate as the WiFi as WAN for any router. Another reason to buy from the 3GStore is that they provide configuration details on how this is done, and if you mess it up you can call them.

There is now a newer version of the Pepwave Surf called an OTG (On The Go). This integrates a cellular modem capability into the existing Pepwave Surf functions. You can read a test report on this latest Surf product here.

The PepWave is nice, but it has limitations. First, it is an indoor device – it is not weatherproof so you cannot put it on the roof of the RV (although some have done so in a weatherproof enclosure). Second, although it has an external antenna with an RP-SMA male connector it can be complicated to extend this antenna to the roof, where it would get best reception. Third, if you need more than one Ethernet port you will have to add a switch to it, or connect it as a WiFi as WAN device to something like a Cradlepoint 1000 that has LAN ports. Normally, I recommend that the PepWave be high up on a window on the side of the RV that faces the AP.  It comes with suction cups to mount it this way. If you can get any sign of the wifi signal on your laptop without the PepWave, then the PepWave will be a good solution for you – use inSSIDer for discovering the signal strength of the networks in the area.

The WiFiRanger is a device that operates much like the PepWave, but also handles cellular modems as a source of Internet, as well as wifi. What differentiates the WFR (WiFiRanger) from the PepWave, besides the fact it can utilize a cellular modem, is its four LAN ports. It is also a general-purpose router, not just a specific-function device like the PepWave. It is much more flexible, and it has a pretty easy user interface for configuration and management. The WFR will also handle interfacing to a remote CPE (customer Premises Equipment) on the roof of your RV or residence. This solves one of the issues with wifi-capture that the other devices do not; that of having clear line of sight to the AP.

The WFR provides the most flexibility and greatest feature set of the products available on the market today. It can support 3G and 4G cellular modems, satellite, DSL, Cable and WiFi as WAN sources. It can then repeat those signals wirelessly on its N wireless network (it also supports G devices). It has four LAN ports for your wired network devices like printers, TV, or Network Attached Storage (NAS). It will automatically "failover" between WAN sources - in other words if you are connected via wifi and that network goes down, it will automatically connect you to the cellular network (or any other network you have available). For improved wifi capture it can use Ubiquity products in its "WFRBoost" mode. This is fully integrated with the Control Panel, so you do not have to manually mange multiple devices. All of these capabilities have been present in the past - just not in a single device with a simple user interface. The WiFiRanger is discussed in detail in its own section.

Another product that does a similar thing is the Cradlepoint CTR35 wireless N router. The CTR35 supports “wifi as WAN” just like the WFR, as well as data sources from cellular, cable, and DSL modems – just like the WFR. It retails for slightly under the price of the WFR. I have not yet tested the CTR35, but Cradlepoint certainly has a good track record in bringing cellular routers to the market. Also available from Cradlepoint are the MBR95, MBR1400 and the CBR400 - these also handle WiFi as WAN (most of the newer versions of the Cradlepoint routers will likely feature WiFi as WAN). None of the Cradlepoint routers support an integrated connection with a remote CPE (WiFiBoost), like the WFR will.

There are other solutions that combine portions of what we have discussed to solve wifi connection issues. To round out a sampling of them take a look at the following: Jefa Tech, RadioLabs. If you look carefully at the solutions you see advertised you will notice that the products solve one or more of the following issues, in order of sophistication and cost:

• Power – most have advanced higher-powered transmitters in them.
• Antenna – either a better antenna, or an antenna that can be remotely mounted for better line of sight (LOS) to the AP
• Multiple users – a local WLAN (wireless LAN) so that you can connect multiple devices to the same Internet connection
• Multiple Internet (backhaul) sources – the ability to handle wifi, cellular modems, DSL, cable modems, etc. Sometimes all in one device.

So what device or combination of devices “does it all”? That would be a router that handled multiple Internet sources and had good local connectivity (your local LAN) in combination with a remote (rooftop) CPE for the best wifi capture. Today, the only device that does that is the WiFiRanger.

 

Customer Premises Equipment (CPE)

CPE is a general term used to refer to devices that contain a radio set and antenna and are used to pick up the wifi signal (or other type of signal) and then provide it to your  LAN or computer. They may be specialty devices, intended to only be used to bridge between the broadcast network and your private LAN, or they may be a generalized carrier-grade radio that can function in multiple fashions – as a bridge, a router, an AP, etc. A CPE has a higher powered radio than that available in your laptop, a better antenna, and it is mounted outside with clear line of sight (LOS) to the AP (Access Point). Thus it solves the biggest issues with wifi reception (LOS, power, antenna quality). The CPE is directly wired to your router or your computer with Ethernet cable – which is a digital signal that can be sent around 300’ without degradation. This overcomes the typical issue with extending an antenna from your wifi adaptor; an antenna connection is analog and the signal degrades rapidly when sent over a long antenna cable.

Shown to the left is a Deliberant radio deployed as a CPE. This particular model has a 14dbi panel antenna built into it, and 500mW of power. It is capable of connections in excess of five miles when connecting to another radio of the same type in point-to-point or AP mode, and capable of connecting to wifi networks at a mile or more when used as a client bridge (CPE). Of course, that is under nearly ideal conditions. While use of this carrier-class equipment provides for a very good signal capture, it also adds a great deal of complexity to the solution. This is why most people do not deploy it. It requires the end user to understand the device, how to configure it, how to design the network, how to install and (perhaps) build Ethernet lines, and how to successfully interface the CPE to the local LAN. Because these CPEs have typically been sold to professional installers, there are few instructions with them – they are simply not aimed at the consumer market.  The WFRBoost available with the WiFiRanger is an example of a CPE - it is the first CPE packaged with a consumer product, and with configuration integrated with the wireless router. Because the WFBoost has integrated configuration and management with the WiFiRanger software, it is the first easy to use CPE in the consumer marketplace.

You can also mount a CPE on the roof of a truck or other vehicle. On the left you can see a small outside omni antenna (black)  just behind the roof rack, with a Ubiquity Bullet connected to it thru the roof. Of course, you need the inside space to mount the radio if you do it this way. In this case you can connect the CPE to a wireless router like the WiFiRanger and repeat the signal, or you could just hardwire it to the Ethernet port of a laptop or a miniature desktop computer dedicated to servicing the vehicle. It would allow easy capture of signals at hotels, shopping malls, fast food restaurants, libraries, etc. If you are looking for a mini desktop for vehicle use take a look at the Asus Eee Box series.

There are many commercial radios on the market that are used to deploy wifi networks. Almost all of them can be used as CPEs with proper configuration. My preferred CPEs are from Ubiquity and Deliberant. Both companies make highly configurable devices that are priced right and are very reliable. Over the years I’ve used many of their products to deploy both wifi networks, and as CPEs.

My favorite CPEs at the moment are the Ubiquity Bullet or Nanostation. The Bullet is easily combined with an omni antenna (shown on the left, temporarily mounted to the ladder), and the Nanostation has an in-built directional antenna, so you have two methods of signal capture. When using a directional antenna you have to carefully consider the mounting method, and your willingness to aim the device before use. Directional antennas provide for better signal capture over longer distances, and in more difficult circumstances – but the downside is determining where the wifi signal originates, and then aiming the CPE. Typically, directional antennas are best used in fixed locations that are permanent, while omni antennas provide for a good method of signal capture on mobile vehicles like an RV. Some people do mount directional antennas on RVs, but typically this is not necessary for RV Park, or close-in signal capture. An 8dbi omni antenna, combined with a Ubiquity Bullet, will pull in wifi signal from 800-3000’ pretty readily. Of course it does somewhat depend on the quality of the signal from the AP.

You can set up a CPE to capture and feed wifi signal to any router. You do not need special routers like the WiFiRanger. However, if you go that route, you will be responsible for configuring and managing the CPE as well as the router for your local LAN. It requires an understanding of IP addressing and some of the details of network setup. In the WiFiRanger these details are handled by the firmware in the Ranger - you never have to directly access the CPE device itself.

You can download my DIY Guide to Building Your Own CPE by clicking the link. You can save this file as a PDF for offline reference. It will get you started.

If you would like to "play around with" a CPE and interface it to your existing Cradlepoint (or other) router, and feel you have the time and skills to do so, then I would recommend you use a Ubiquity Bullet as your CPE. This is relatively low cost (around $50 with the Ethernet injector), has a nice small form factor to work with, and allows for a choice of antennas. I would recommend a short 8dbi omni antenna which you can find for around $30 if you look carefully online. You can mount it to your ladder, like I show in the picture, or you can look at the Antenna section here, and utilize a mount attached to the batwing TV lift. The Bullet is 100mW and generally priced at $39, Bullet2 is 400mW, the Bullet M (newest model, part of the AirMax family) is 600 mW and  the Bullet2HP is 1000mW (around $80). These require the POE15 HD27012 Power Over Ethernet injector (15 volt) and can take up to a 24-volt POE for longer distances. For use with an RV I'd recommend the Bullet (100 mW) or the Bullet2HP; the M models are not needed in this application. The Bullets can run off of 9-24 volt power, depending on the distance of the cat5 cable. For RV use with runs around 60' you can usually eliminate the 120-volt transformer and directly connect the injector to 12-volt battery power. However, you have to maintain polarity. If you don't know what you are doing, don't do this.

Here is how to configure it, for those interested - this should work for any AirOS device:

To set up an AirOS device as a CPE (client bridge) you can use this document from the Ubiquity website. If that link no longer works, you can download it from here.

To set up a bridge between two locations (like to share an Internet connection between two houses) read this wiki on the Ubiquity website.

WARNING:

When configuring or setting up these devices you will be using a "Power over Ethernet" power injector. This supplies power to the device over the Ethernet line. Four of the eight lines inside the Cat5 cable are used for power, and four are used for data between the CPE and your router or computer (when directly connecting to it for configuration). MAKE SURE that you plug your computer or router into the LAN side of the injector - sometimes labeled "Data". If you mistakenly plug it into the "Power" or "POE" connector directly it very likely will burn up your Ethernet port on your computer. The POE line goes to the CPE, NOT to your computer or router.

Powering Your Devices

 

Amplifiers and routers require an outside power source. Both can run on either 12-volt or 120-volt. When installing your system you really should set it up for 12-volt use. This will allow you to use everything when boondocking or when driving down the road. In particular, the router needs to be on when driving if you want Internet access. It is useful to get emails, and to search for points of interest or look at live weather radar while travelling. You will have the technology - why not use it. If you set up everything for 12 volts then there will be no shuffling of cables on travel day, or when boondocking.

 

You may have to order a 12-volt adaptor for the router. Most of the amplifiers come with the 12-volt hookup. You may also have to locate the devices near an existing 12-volt plug, or wire in a new 12-volt service to supply them in your chosen location. This is generally possible to do without too much trouble. Just make sure you use heavy enough wire if you have to add a new 12-volt outlet. There are voltage drop tables in the Solar sections of this website.

 

You don't have to worry about the antenna - they are passive devices. They need no power.

 

My Setup

 

I currently use the following:

• My local LAN is driven by a WiFiRanger. On that LAN are a wireless multifunction printer, three full-size laptops (15" and two 17"), and a Eee Netbook. For storage there is a four terabyte NAS (Network Attached Storage with 2x2 mirrored drives). The DTV satellite receiver and TV are also on the LAN and are hardwired through a switch in the entertainment center.

• In addition to the WiFiRanger I also have a Cradlepoint 1000 permanently mounted in my communications center next to the WFR. That is my "standby" router, and is what I used prior to the WiFiRanger. If something happens to the WFR then it is a simple matter to move a few lines to the Cradlepoint: one USB line for the aircard, and three Ethernet lines (one for the CPE, one for the NAS, and one for a switch that feeds the TV and DTV receiver at the entertainment center).

• DroidX smartphone. This can connect through my local LAN as well as the cellular network. Everything I do is Google based to the extent possible, so it is totally integrated between the smartphone and the computers.

• I have a hand-built WFRBoost (CPE) on the roof of the RV attached via Ethernet to the WiFiRanger. I built this from on-hand components. This will shortly be replaced with the commercial version of the Boost. Prior to my using the WiFiRanger I used this CPE directly connected to the Cradlepoint 1000. Since I have various radios available to me my CPE varies with what I have on hand, but has been a Bullet for some time. For a directional CPE I use a Nanostation (NS2) when I need it.

• I use a USB 727 aircard on the Verizon network. This is plugged into the WiFiRanger's USB port via a USB cable. The aircard is connected to a Cyfre wired amp and the antenna is a Wilson RV.

• For the rest of the cellular devices (phones) I use a wireless SCT Large RV amplifier. This allows the cell phones better reception.