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Selecting Your Heavy Duty Truck
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Copyright © 2002-2008 John Mayer. All rights reserved. For reuse policy see Reuse Policy In this Section:
This section discusses our truck, and the factors we considered when selecting it from the many available trucks. Although we ended up buying our truck through Larry Zeigler, we considered all our options before accepting one of the trucks Larry acquired. It took us over a year to find our truck, and we spent a year before that researching our options. We were pretty particular, and as it turned out, some of the things we thought we wanted on the truck we dropped when we bought from Larry. During this process Larry offered free and willing advice to us. Over five years later I still find his advice was “right on” in every respect. Some of the tradeoff’s you have to make are personal choices/preferences; such as wheelbase. Only YOU can decide on these, but you need to understand your present and future requirements well in order to make an informed decision. Your truck will last a long time, so choose accordingly. Near the end of this section is a link to salesmen you might consider, and some other helpful info. Also, check the Resource Listing section for various sources of parts, places to have your truck painted, etc. Obviously, much of the info that follows is our opinion. I try to present the logic we used to reach our conclusions. Your preferences may differ. There are a large number of pictures of our truck being converted to a single axle here: Jack's Volvo conversion. We obviously selected a Volvo, but that does not mean other class 8’s are not as good. As with RV’s there are tradeoffs in every model. Personally, we wanted an aero sleeper, but others find a sleeper to be too big and a waste of space. Some buyers convert the sleeper to passenger seating. This is certainly doable. You add windows to the back and sides if your truck does not have them (try Peninsula Glass for a great selection of high-quality RV-style windows). You can also add a jackknife couch in place of the bed (and still retain the storage compartments). If you want to be able to drop the couch into a bed then you will have to remove the storage cabinets in most trucks (definitely in a Volvo 610/660). We chose to leave our interior intact since we sometimes use the Volvo for short overnight trips instead of hauling the 5er. We also like having a fridge/microwave in the truck, which would be difficult in a Volvo 610 if you added a jackknife couch. You can see some pictures of Volvo's with windows and couches added at Powerhouse Coach. Look in the "Toters" section. There are two primary tradeoffs that will drive all other choices when considering which tractor to convert. These are length of cab, and height of cab. Full height tractors are easy to find (full-height tractors are about 13’ tall) and much easier to find with an autoshift than mid-height tractors like a Volvo 610. Mid height tractors have the advantage of being easier to drive off the interstate. There is less tendency to hit tree limbs, or to have to deviate because of low overpasses. There is only one popular mid-height aero tractor and that is the Volvo 610. Other manufacturers make mid height units but they are much harder to find. (You can find more mid-height conventional tractors - those with the long nose - but we wanted an aero sleeper.) Full height tractors do have additional storage in the extra vertical space. Most of the full-height tractors are also longer than the mid height tractors. The length of the tractor (wheelbase and cab length) is probably the most critical measure. Your wheelbase will be driven by the BBC (Bumper to Back of Cab) measurement. Basically, longer sleepers have longer BBCs. So the Volvo 610, with its 61-inch sleeper, will be much shorter to the back of the cab than a Volvo 770, with its 77-inch sleeper. The longer the BBC is, the longer the minimum wheelbase. So, you need to decide how long of a wheelbase you can tolerate. Anything over around 195” is going to be significantly harder to drive around town and park than shorter ones. I’ve kind of chosen 195” arbitrarily, but it is based on my experience driving our truck (182”) and longer wheelbase MDTs. Of course, you really need to consider what kind of deck cargo you will be carrying. If you don’t intend to carry anything on the deck, then stay on the short side. Our 182” will carry a single motorcycle, but (probably) not in a loader. On a Volvo, 182” is about as short as you can go. If you look in the section describing our body you will find the spreadsheet we used to play with different wheelbases and body layouts. It has a truck body calculator for Volvo 610, 770 and Kenworth T2000. This should help you decide what wb truck to buy. What you give up with the shorter cab trucks is the nice large
sleeper. The Volvo 610 is certainly livable, but a Volvo 770 has a lot
of extra room and storage, as does the T2000, with its 75” condo. As an
example of the length tradeoffs, consider a T2000 compared to our 182”
wheelbase Volvo 610. Our truck body is 9’ long (behind the vertical cab
fairing). There is a box in between the cab fairings that is 14”. To put
the same body on a T2000 (9’ body behind the vertical cab fairings) you
end up with a 204” wheelbase, assuming you can find the 230” wheelbase
tractor to start with. (Subtract 26” from the tandem wheelbase to get
the single axle wheelbase.) Most T2000 wheelbases (unconverted) are in
the 232-240” range. So you will have at least 22” more wheelbase. But
you will have 14” more condo space, if that is important to you. Note
that our deck is the shortest that is usable for carrying much of
anything, so your deck might have to be longer than our 9’. Some history of Volvo models, and evolution can be found
here. Here is how Volvo model names work: VNM = 112" BBC 'bumper to back of cab' (daycab) 42T = 4x2 Tractor 1997-2001 models Oct-2002+ 200, 300, 800 = daycabs engines, Volvo D12 and Cummins ISX only 2005 2006 Our candidates for conversion were the Volvo 610, Volvo 770, Pete 387, and Kenworth T2000. All are full height tractors with large condos, except the 610. We did not consider a Volvo 660 because it has the condo of a 610, with the height of a 770. For us, the worst characteristics of each. We also did not consider any Freightliner product. We have many friends with MDT FL's and they have nothing but problems. Danielle's friends in the heavy trucking industry recommended staying away from Freightliner unless cost was a significant factor. Your opinion may vary on this point. (Update 5/2007: the newer M2 FL's are pretty nice trucks, and if I was building new I would consider them. Also, the new Cascadia looks to be a nice truck.) We discarded the Volvo 770 and Pete 387 because of their height. They are just taller than we wanted for every day driving. They are fine on major highways, but on secondary roads, and especially in some campgrounds, they are taller than is convenient. Even with our 10’10” Volvo 610 we have to be observant. Most of our time is spent in every day driving, not while towing, so it was more important to have a tractor that was good around town.
The larger T2000 has a 75” condo, and a 50” setback front axle. Its BBC is 184”. With a suitable body, the minimum wheelbase of a T2000 is in the 204-208” range (assuming you want to carry a motorcycle). Along with the longer wheelbase, the T2000 only has a 45-degree wheel cut; the Volvo’s have a 50-degree wheel cut. The combination of these two factors means that a T2000 will be a much harder vehicle to live with on a daily basis. Our limited experience with T2's also led us to the conclusion they are noisier than Volvo's, and the driving position (especially for short people like Danielle) is not as comfortable as the Volvo. The driving position does vary somewhat based on the installed seats, and the availability of telescopic steering (this is an option in T2's and standard in Volvo's). In favor of the T2000 is its very nice 75” condo, and its looks. We consider it one of the best looking tractors on the market. It is also fairly easy to find one with an autoshift transmission. In the end, all these considerations led us to a Volvo 610 as the right tractor for us. The final deciding factor was the Volvo had a driver’s side air bag, the engine was designed to dive below the cab in an accident, and the dash was designed to be crashworthy. We would love to have a larger condo, but the 61” condo is fine, even for overnight trips. Despite the negatives of the T2, it is a fine truck, and we would consider owning one in the future. It would have to have telescopic steering, though. An in-depth analysis that came to a different conclusion, ending with the purchase of a Volvo 770, can be found at http://www.dmbruss.com/ which is the website of Mark and Dale Bruss. The Volvo we ended up with is a 1999 610. It has a Cummins ISM (M-11) with 400 hp and 1450 lb/ft of torque. One of our “must-haves” was an autoshift transmission – more about that later. We have a 182” wb, after conversion. The frame was cut at 39” behind the rubber of the rear tire (see the body-building section for our recommendations on this). We added Accuride aluminum wheels on the fronts and outer rears. We had the truck dyno’ed, DOT inspected, an overhead (tune-up) done, all fluids changed, and synthetic added to the transmission and rear. We also had Cummins do an engine inspection and bought the extended warranty that they offered (200,000 miles/2 years). Larry did all of the above, and added a shore power hookup and new carpeting to the interior. In a moment of “weakness” he also agreed to put on tank fairings for us. He says he will never do this again. It was a lot of work and expense (of course, I did pay for it - I couldn't talk him into throwing it in). I did not have Larry do any additional electrical work, or add any appliances. I'm very particular about electrical modifications and the “draw” of appliances, so chose to do those myself. You can see what I did in the “Electrical Center” portion of this website. I did have Larry add the shore power connector because I was picking the truck up in Kansas City and driving directly to Livingston, TX to register as a motor home. I did this without having all the appliances in. If required to go through an inspection in order to obtain the motorhome designation, I wanted to be able to go to Wal-Mart, buy the appliances, and then complete the registration process for a motor home. Having shore power already in would make this much easier if I needed to do it “on the road”. As it turns out, it was not necessary; I registered as a motorhome without any inspection. I added the appliances later. Our requirement for an engine was Cummins, Detroit, Cat in that order and at least 400 hp/1450 torque. Variable hp engines were fine, as long as they met these minimum requirements. As it turns out, 400 hp is sufficient to pull a heavy RV. I would buy another 400 hp engine, but I would prefer a 430-ish/1550. The extra torque would be handy sometimes in the big hills of the west. When looking, I was more familiar with Cummins engines, so that was our preference, but at this point I would take any of the big 3. Actually, I think I prefer the Detroit Series 60 to the Cummins at this point. They have a longer median time to rebuild. Originally, I said I would not buy a Volvo engine. Not that I thought that there was anything wrong with them, in fact they have a good reputation; it is just that I thought they would be harder to get worked on by “experienced” mechanics than the others. I've since changed my view on this and would buy a Volvo engine, assuming the truck met my other requirements. The experience of others with the Volvo engines has been good, in the service area. We have routine service (oil change, fuel filter, lube, etc) done at Speedco, primarily. It is easy in and out, we can run through with the 5er attached, if required, and they are consistent in price and service level. They also don’t object to you standing and watching them; in fact they insist on you watching them torque the oil drain plug. I always get an oil test done. It is relatively cheap, and lets you know if anything is starting to go in the engine or cooling system. Once a year or so, when I am in a Volvo dealer for Volvo-specific work I have them do just a lube. That way I have a better chance of getting all the lube points done. You would think a Volvo service person would know where they are (perhaps wishful thinking). So far (after over 5 years), we have had no engine-specific problems
with the truck. A note about the "big block" engines (like the ISX/ N14 Cummins). These engines are heavy. When used in a bobtail tractor, with a good fuel load onboard, you could overload the front axle (typically 12k lbs.). To counter this problem, Volvo, at least, moved the fuel tanks rearward on some versions of their trucks. This interferes with having a body with forward storage compartments (just forward of the axle), since there is at least one fuel tank positioned back in this area. You see this most often on 770's but it can be on 610's with the ISX/N-14 (or any "big block"). You need to be aware of this when converting to RV use - you want as much weight on the rear body as is practical to "unload" the front axle and better distribute weight. Many people add weight (up to 1500 lbs, in some cases) behind the rear axle in the form of plates. I think this is a good idea if you have a front axle close to overload. Remember, you use the tractor "bobtail" more than hauling. If you are having a hauler bed built, then you can move the tanks forward to regain some of the space lost to the tanks. The body will more than balance out the front axle loading. The B50 rating of an engine is an indication of when half the engines will need overhaul. So a B50 of 500,000 miles means half the engines that reach 500K miles will have needed an overhaul. The following table gives statistics for the most popular engines. If you buy a used truck that has an engine near the B50 then you should factor in the cost for an overhaul into the price, in my opinion. Any engine close to the B50 you might consider replacing the rod and main bearings and having a look at the engine while doing that. Cost to replace rod and main bearings on most engines is in the $1400-$1600 range. It is cheap insurance for a high mile engine.
Engine idle time is another piece of data to look at. The ECM report
or drivers display will show total idle time. Industry experts report
that Class 7 or Class 8 OTR trucks (Over The Road) will average 1,800 to
2,600 hours per truck annually. If used in expedited freight then it
will typically be higher, because of extended layover times in
expediting. The air systems, and associated parts, are quite different from a regular truck. The braking system depends on a reliable, and clean, air supply. When selecting a truck you need to make sure the air system is in good working order, with no major leaks. All trucks will leak down over time, when left sitting. “Normal” behavior falls in the range of dropping air to 75psi (the alarm point) in a 24 hr period. When checking a truck for acquisition, I personally would not accept a drop of more than 5 psi (more or less) in a 2 hr period. If it is leaking down that fast you need to discover why. The leak could be anywhere, and it might be hard to find. Some of the component parts of the air system are very expensive to replace, so you need to find out why it is leaking. On all modern trucks there are three air tanks; a “wet tank” that the air compressor supplies with filtered and dry air (you hope), and a tank and associated lines for the primary brakes (rear) and secondary brakes (front). The wet tank needs to be checked and drained on a periodic basis. It might contain water (through condensation) or a small amount of oil. You don’t want this oil and water to get into the braking system. If the air dryer desiccant filter is working properly, the amount of oil/water in the wet tank will be minimal. Our truck NEVER has any moisture or oil in the wet tank. When used in commerce, the driver is required to check once a day. I generally check once a week, and have never found anything. Some trucks have automatic drains on them, but they should still be checked manually on a periodic basis. When looking at a truck I would be suspicious of lots of water/oil, but it is in the normal range to have some. Depending on how much it has been driven once the dealer acquired it there might be significant condensation. You know the salespeople are not draining the tank. Using air brakes is a little different than hydraulic brakes. With air brakes, there is a lag between pushing the pedal and brake take-up. This is because the air in the lines takes time to activate the brakes (about .5 second, according to CDL manuals). There is also no direct feedback through the foot pedal; what you feel is the resistance of a spring, not hydraulic modulation. Some trucks have an application air gauge, where you can see how hard you are applying the brakes. This is really only useful for long grade descents, so you can tell if your brakes are fading. It is not real usable for normal stops.
Autoshift/Automated Transmissions We restricted our choices to trucks with an autoshift transmission. At the time, that was the only automated transmission widely available in a class 8 tractor. Starting in 2002 you could also find fully automated transmissions - also called 2-pedal transmissions. These operate much like an autoshift, but eliminate the clutch pedal entirely and give that function over to the computer. They are still not an automatic transmission like in a car - they have no torque converter. They automate the shifting and clutch work that a driver would normally perform with computer controls. Depending on the year and make of truck you may see: Autoshift, Freedomline, Ultrashift or I- Shift transmissions. All but the Autoshift are 2-pedal transmissions with no clutch pedal, and no clutching required. An autoshift is a 3-pedal transmission that requires clutching at start (and stopping if you don't use neutral) - after that it performs all up/down shifts on its own, under computer control. Autoshifts can be 10-speed (the most common) or 18-speed (pretty rare and probably not best for RV use). On all of the automated transmissions you can use some form of "manual mode" to perform the shifting yourself. You use buttons on the transmission stalk or panel, or sometimes a form of paddle on the steering wheel or steering column stalk to control the shifting in manual mode - it varies by transmission type, truck make, and year. In all cases with the automated transmissions the computer will not allow you to perform a shift that is "harmful" - even under manual control. This is an advantage in a used truck - you know it has not been abused by the driver. There are two forms of the autoshift commonly available: Generation 1 and Generation 2 (usually abbreviated Gen1 and Gen2 in ads). They both operate in a similar fashion, and both require use of the clutch for starting and stopping. The computer software is different between them, as is the control mechanism. In a generation 1, the transmission electronics are housed in a console that is mounted to the floor next to the drivers seat. The mechanical control lever at the top of the console permits shifting into the automated modes mechanically with the lever, or if in "Hold" you can shift between the gears with an electronic shift, controlled by buttons on the stalk. Generation 2 Autoshifts moved the transmission electronics from the console next to the driver onto the transmission case. This allowed the control panel to be made totally electronic with membrane-type buttons (like your microwave typically has) and to be located outside of a floor-mounted console. In a Volvo, this control pad is almost always mounted to the side of the seat on a swing-arm. On some other trucks this pad is mounted inside the dash. It still allows for the same type of operation as the gen 1 autoshift - you can manually shift the transmission with the membrane pad. One difference a driver might notice between Gen1 and Gen2 transmissions its that a Gen1 can be programmed to allow starts in any gear up to and including 5. Gen2 transmission software only allows starts in up to 3rd gear. There is now a generation III autoshift available that uses either a touch pad shift control, or the "cobra head" lever shift control - both mounted in the dash someplace. It has a clutch pedal. There is no inherent advantage to one generation of autoshift over the another. They both operate in a similar fashion. Some may feel that the generation 1 ability to start in 5th gear is an advantage. Others may feel that the touch pad of the Generation 2 mounted on the seat or dash is an advantage. It boils down to personal preference, in my opinion. All autoshift generations are sensitive to dirt and corrosion in the plugs and sensors mounted to the transmissions. If you start having issues with an autoshift then the first thing to do is to pull all the connectors and clean them with electronic cleaner. Ultrashift Eaton Fuller, the maker of the Autoshift, also makes the fully automated transmission called the Ultrashift. In HDT's the Ultrashift is available in 10-speed and 13-speed. This transmission has no clutch pedal, although it does use a conventional clutch under computer control. It is not an automatic transmission, it is simply fully automated. There is no torque converter or other paraphernalia that you normally find in a cars "automatic" transmission. There are, however, models that have a "Park" position, although these are not seen in linehaul applications. Park models can not be shifted manually. Ultrashift came out as a Gen2 in 2004 and moved to generation 3 in 2005. Freedomline The Freedomline transmission, from Meritor, first appeared in Peterbuilt 387's in 2001, and in T2000's and Volvo's in 2002. It a 2-pedal transmission with an air actuated clutch with a separate air tank. It is available in a 12-speed and handles up to 1650 lb-ft of torque. It has an aluminum transmission case, so it is lighter than the other automated transmissions. The shift console is typically mounted to the driver's seat and can swing up. I-Shift The I-Shift fully automated transmission is a 12-speed available paired with Volvo engines. It is Volvos proprietary transmission, and was introduced globally in 2002. Like the Freedomline it has an air actuated clutch with its own air chamber. It is said that one of the major benefits of the I-Shift over the other automated transmissions is a smoother clutch, resulting in better launch control in low speed situations - like backing to a trailer or loading dock. The I-Shift is seat mounted, and there are two models of gear selectors - both are foldable for sleeper access. The Basic gear selector allows selection of manual hold for the current gear, but no other gear selection in manual. The Premium gear selector allow manual mode to fully change gears up and down. It also has the performance and economy modes which the basic selector does not. Volvo has some unique features in this transmission, like eco-roll and a kick-down feature on the pedal. Most RV haulers have one of the rear tandem axles removed. This process is called “singling”, or “singling-out” the truck. There is no real requirement for a second rear axle in an RV application. The amount of weight carried when hauling an RV is not enough to justify tandem axles. If carrying a car, in addition to pulling the 5th wheel, it is probably best to leave the tandems in place. It will give you better weight distribution front-to-rear. In order to determine if singling the truck is appropriate you have to fully understand your cargo carrying requirements. If you intend to carry a lot of weight, or a lot of weight in the forward (drom box) position then singling is probably not a good idea. The reason is that you will likely overload your front axle. Especially if you have a large displacement engine. Before singling you need to weigh the front axle and determine how close you are to the limits. This will help in determining the rear axle position to use. Using the rear (rear) position will result in more weight shift to the front. Using the front (rear) will reduce this, but you will still get weight shift to the front. If you intend to carry any car other than a Smart, then you probably need to remain tandem. Same with other heavy deck cargo in a forward drom box. This is likely to overload the front axle. Another consideration is the type of bed you are adding to the rear. If adding a hauler body (with side compartments) then you may decide to move the fuel tanks to the forward position. This will shift weight to the front axle - some of which will be compensated for by the weight of the hauler body, or by any weight you add to the rear of the body - behind the axle position - to act as a cantilever force. It is all a delicate balancing act (pun intended). If you are just hauling your RV, with maybe a motorcycle or ATV on
deck, and the typical tool boxes and "stuff" that people carry, then you
are unlikely to overload the front axle if singling to the front (rear)
location. This is especially true when pulling the trailer, since the
hitch location is likely behind the axle centerline and the trailer pin
weight is unloading the front axle. The point is - you need to know and
understand your long-term intentions on use of the truck. Otherwise you
may find yourself unable to do some of the things you want. You can't
just throw things together without risking disappointment later.
Cons of Singling
The proper way to single the truck is to utilize the rear axle. It is
the main drive axle and is designed for constant service. It is either
left in place, or moved forward to replace the most forward of the
tandem axles. A new drive shaft needs to be fabricated, and possibly a
new carrier bearing. Sometimes a truck is singled using the front axle
by just leaving it in place. The rear axle is simply removed. This
requires engaging the power divider at all times, and leaving an exposed
yoke at the rear. This yoke was the termination point for the rear drive
axle. It is designed to be loaded, and running it unloaded can cause
issues - you will most likely have early seal failure as well as other
problems. The front (rear) axle is not designed to be used as the primary drive
axle, it is designed to be engaged in low speed, slippery conditions - not to be run at highway speeds. At the 2006 HDT Rally the service
manager, a group of mechanics and Kenny Doonan (the owner of Doonan
Truck, the Wichita Peterbuilt dealer) all advised against singling the
truck using the front axle. Other sources advise against it as well.
Personally, I would not buy a truck that is singled this way. Other
people have differing opinions, but bear in mind, this is not within the
design parameters of the truck. It does work, however. An excellent
write-up on correcting a "front axle singling job" is on the website of
Mark Shelley - "DIYGuy". His 770 was singled by just dropping the rear
axle. It caused him many problems and a lot of work and expense to
correct. Figure on a minimum of $4000 to fix this - after the fact. Look
here:
Mark
Shelley The axle position chosen (forward position, or rear position) is
based on your cargo carrying needs. If you need a large deck – say to
carry two motorcycles – then you will probably consider the rearward
position. Otherwise, to maximize maneuvering and shorten the overall
length of the truck, most people choose to move the rear axle into the
front axle position. It is unusual to create a new axle position that is
different from the original locations. It is a difficult and expensive
process to re-drill the frame for a new position, so it is not usually
done. On a Volvo the process of singling the truck is fairly
straightforward. The suspension and axles are totally independent in
operation. Typically, the rear axle is moved forward into the front axle
position. No new holes have to be drilled the suspension and axle move
intact. One major issue with all axle relocations is the driveline
angle. The original driveline angles must be maintained, or you will
likely have vibration problems, and potentially driveline failure –
usually a u-joint. On a Volvo, there are shims on the original front
axle that establish the driveline angle. These must be removed from the
original front axle, and moved to the rear axle when it is moved
forward. They are inserted between two saddles that are attached to the
axle with U bolts. In most cases this will establish the proper
driveline angle, but it must be measured to ensure it is within
specifications. In some situations additional shims must be added. Make
sure this is done, or you could have vibration issues or even u-joint
failure in severe cases. If your truck has not had this done, and is
operating OK (with no vibrations), then I would not worry about it. The
most likely outcome will be early u-joint failure, so just keep an eye
on things during yearly preventive maintenance inspections. My Volvo 610
is not shimmed, so I do keep an eye on the u-joints. All trucks now come with ABS brakes. There are two brake systems
commonly used: Wabco and Bendix. The Bendix three axle ABS can be
reprogrammed to ignore the removed axle. This is a simple job – any shop
can easily do it. The Wabco system can not be reprogrammed and must be
switched out to a 2-axle system (cost is about $650-$700, plus 1-2 hours
labor). Make sure your ABS is properly set up for the single rear axle.
To identify which system you have, you need to find the ABS controller.
It is generally under the cab, near the transmission. Verify that any
shop work is done correctly. It has happened that the bulb has been
removed from the ABS fault light on the dash to "fix" the ABS. Turn your
key on and verify the ABS bulb is still there, and that it does not come
on once the truck is running. Kenworth trucks, with the AG suspension, may prove more difficult to single. Most of the AG suspensions have a running beam that ties the suspension elements together between the front and rear axle sets. The AG 380 suspension is an exception – they are totally independent. Some people single Kenworth's by completely removing the AG suspension and substituting a “conventional” suspension. Singling considerations:
If you just singled the truck and have vibration problems look first to the driveline angles. You must verify they are to spec. Also, verify that the axle is not shifting at its attachment point. This will happen if the U bolts are not torqued to specifications. After that, look at the following:
Probably as important as the truck itself is the dealership and
salesman you use. Unless you have a lot of heavy truck experience you
are somewhat at the mercy of the salespeople. Hundreds of trucks have
been bought by posters on the HDT section of the Escapees forum. The
best sales people are in the PDF file that follows. If you want a
tractor already converted, then check with Larry Ziegler or Randy
Butler. Central Carolina Trucks will also convert the tractor for you -
if they sell it to you. Most other truck dealers will not. "Trade terms", is industry jargon for what a dealer would expect a trucks condition to be if acquiring it from another dealer. You often see this in advertisements. You can see a definition of this at the Used Truck Association website. The best advice is that you have to make sure the deal is right, and the truck is right. You can not depend on sales people to represent your interests. They need to sell the truck Evaluating a Potential Purchase Prior to purchase you should either inspect the truck yourself, or
have it inspected by a mechanic or inspection company. Try
Truck Remark or
National Truck Protection for inspection companies. You can perform a decent inspection yourself on many of the trucks systems and components. At a minimum you must have a dyno done. This will tell you the blowby numbers, which gives you the most basic condition of the engine. The dyno will also give you the horsepower at the rear wheels. Compare this to the rated hp – it should be 80% of the rated power, more or less. Much less than 80% and I would not buy the truck unless it was priced such that in in-frame could be done and still have a decent price for the truck. Another test that can be done is a coolant compression test. This is done under load and checks for air in the coolant system. There should be none. If there are bubbles in the coolant, it is most likely a bad head gasket. Make sure the truck has a current DOT inspection. This will not catch
everything, but at least blatant safety items are covered. A dyno and
DOT are normal pre-purchase events. Walk from any deal that does not
allow them. If there is a VIS Check facility in the area, it is highly
recommended. It will check brake and suspension operation. It catches
things that a DOT can not catch. As an example, new kingpins can be over
$1200 – a VIS will catch this – nothing else will. You will almost
always have to cover the cost of the dyno and VIS. Sometimes you can
negotiate a pass/fail deal with the seller – but not usually. Have the ECM data dumped (printed out). Check the ECM miles against
the odometer miles. They should be close – or there should be a good
explanation. Check the engine serial number against the actual number.
Check the average speed driven. Check if the truck was governed to a
limited speed. Check for any fault codes. You are looking for anomalies,
and things that do not make sense. There should be no charge to dump the
ECM. Check the engine over for leaks and for general external condition – look at the belts and hoses. If you have coolant test strips, check the DCA level and pH of the coolant if it is not extended use coolant. When having the engine checked it is best to be there when they hook up with the laptop so you can see the inactive fault codes before they clear them. Go through the engine, transmission, ABS, gauges, etc. If the engine is a C12 make sure it has had all the updates done. If it is a Cummins engine start it right after the key is turned on. Don't give the fuel transfer pump a chance to pump all the bubbles out and you'll know if you have air leaking troubles – this will cause rough running. If it is a T2000 or Pete 387 try to test drive it in at least a 15mph crosswind. Do the doors leak air? Does it have the secondary seal? Push on the corners of all the sleeper panels. Are they still bonded? Play with the wipers. Do they park in the right spot every time? Or are they erratic? ($300 part) If it is a T2, does it have the complex reflector headlights? Have them installed if not (huge improvement). Also tell them you won't buy it until they install the drivers mirror glass with temperature display (it is a simple install) If it has the AG200 suspension have them check the pins & bushings for play. Check for composite front springs (they are rare but are a KW highway tractor option). Have they been beat up with highway debris? Do they have any deep gouges or feathered areas? How are the sleeper side fairings? Are they bent or beat up? ($600 range each piece). Check the clutch rod heim joints and bell crank for wear. Make sure the clutch pedal has about 1" of free play. Make sure the radiator ground wire is connected and not torn up.
Listen to the fan hub at high idle. Does it rattle and sound rough? How
much friction material is left? Check the sleeper leveling valve rod. Is
it worn out with loose joints? If it has a cab or sleeper mounted
tailpipe listen to it real close during the test drive. Is the drone
acceptable to you? Or are you going to want to rip it off and run it
over 10 times at the first truck stop you see?
Take a look at the batteries if the box is accessible. In almost all
trucks, there are four of them. They should be clean and the terminals
in good condition. Other than that, you won’t be able to tell much. Make sure the rear tires have the same tread pattern and wear level.
Note if they are virgins, or retreads. Note the tread depth – you want
50%. Note the condition of aluminum wheels. It is not likely they will
be polished, but check them for deep scratches and curb damage. Wheels
can be sanded to get out deep scratches – note for negotiations. The
frame will be rusty in most cases, but note how bad it is. Sometimes it
has been sandblasted and painted. Note the quality of the job – there
should be no flakey rust left. If the hitch is an air slider, the rails
can be used in mounting an RV air hitch on a plate. A regular hitch may
require additional bracing to mount the RV air hitch. Crawl under the truck and look for loose wires, and oil. There will
almost always be some oil and grease. That is normal. Look for leaks
around gaskets. Check for air leaks where you can (make sure the air is
up on the truck). Check the condition of the headlights. If the covers
are “milky” they need replacing, or polishing. Generally, they need
replacing. Check that the headlight high beam switch is operable (the
truck needs to be running, with the park brake off). This often goes on
Volvos. Also verify that the daytime running lights work correctly, and
that the other running lights and turn signals are operable. You would
be surprised what does not work – even with a current DOT. On the inside, turn the key on and make sure all the diagnostic
lights are functional – especially the ABS light. Sometimes bulbs are
removed to mask problems. Once the truck is running all lights should
extinguish. There is no acceptable explanation for a fault light
remaining on – it needs to be fixed. Make sure that the instruments all
work. They should not constantly jump around. Depending on the
instruments you may not be able to verify correct operation – for
example, rear axle temps can only be verified if you drive the truck
some. Check that all switches are functional (to the extent you can
without driving). In particular, verify that heat and air works properly
– don’t forget the sleeper controls. Verify that the instrument lights
work and adjust up/down. Make sure any powered windows and mirrors work
smoothly. The drivers display should work once the truck is running. Go
through every screen and verify the LCD display is not damaged, and note
the status of the screen. If there is a Road Relay (or comparable
display) in the truck, do the same with it. These two displays are very
expensive to replace. Check the radio and CD player for correct
operation. Make sure all the speakers work (on Volvos, sometimes the
ceiling speakers are not connected – this is normal). Verify the wipers
work, that the intermittent feature works, and that the washer works.
Before starting the truck, check the level of the air system. If it has at least 60psi, bleed the three tanks first (you may need pliers). If it has no air in the system, you will have to air it up first. Check for water and oil. A little is within the normal range, but a lot indicates a bad air dryer, a saturated desiccant cartridge, or another air system problem. A truck with a good air dryer will normally have no fluids in the air system. Air system problems can be expensive and aggravating to resolve. Start the truck and air it up. It should build air at a good rate, and fairly evenly in the primary and secondary systems. Perform an air brake test (if you do not know how to do this, consult a CDL manual, or look elsewhere on this website). Shut the truck off with full air (120-130 psi). Verify that the truck holds air – crawl around and check for obvious leaks. Check the air system again after an hour or so. It should not have bled down more than about 5 psi (at the most). If it has, you need to figure out why. If you have a CDL they will let you drive the truck (and you probably
do not need to read this). If you do not have a CDL they may not –
sometimes they will. If you do not know how to drive a manual, or have
never driven an HDT before, now is probably NOT the time to learn. Have
the salesman drive it. If they do not let you drive it, go for a ride
with the salesman. If they will not let the truck be driven, walk away -
FAST. Check the alignment – the truck should track true
with your hands off the wheel for 10 seconds or more. There should be no
vibration in the driveline, and the wheel balance should be true. Find a
place without traffic and check the braking. The truck should stop fast
and true from various speeds – sometimes it will pull a little, but it
should not pull a lot. On an autoshift truck, ensure the truck operates
properly in “Hold”. Verify what gear you can start out with in an
autoshift. If the truck is not programmed to start in a higher gear than
“2” you can have that changed (in a Gen 1, up to “5”; in a Gen 2, up to
3). Check the
clutch brake operation – the clutch brake should engage within a half second or
so of fully depressing the clutch (at a stop). Otherwise it may need
adjustment or replacement. Obviously, the truck should accelerate
smoothly without misses or surges. Verify the cruise control works.
Verify the Jake works in all positions. Everything is negotiable. You may not be able to get the price down,
but you may be able to get lots of work done for that price. If you are
buying from a dealer then you can get lots of work done as part of the
deal. If buying from a broker (without repair facilities), you may not
be able to get any work done, but you can negotiate price, based on
needed work. Do not sign the delivery papers or take delivery until ALL
the work is done. You will find it difficult or impossible to get work
done if you "bring it back later". A deposit is normal and expected. Make sure it is
refundable without penalty. Get this in writing. Things to negotiate:
First Things to Do On Your New Truck
So you got your new truck home. If you bought it from a dealer or broker then you likely have no idea what maintenance items have been done to it, and when. The best thing to do, in my opinion, is to perform all the routine maintenance at the beginning, so you know where you stand with the truck. Yes, it is dumping more money into it, but you probably intend to keep the truck for a long time. Skimping here may bite you down the road. Of course, if you can, get the dealer to do some or all of this stuff as part of the purchase price. Some dealers are open to this, and some are not. If the dealer you buy from is going to charge you for this, then I would consider having it done at my local dealer. This will help you establish a relationship with your dealer.
Here is what I would do to any new truck:
This will get you started.
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